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wd4 problem

i have a wd4 i've been working on. I can crank it but it will only run for 3 seconds, and it's hard to crank back up. The carb leaks in a couple places and i can't get it stopped. Plus the compression is quite a bit different between cylinders. I have replaced the plugs, cleaned and set the points, replaced both condensers and 1 coil, rebuilt the carb, cleaned the gas tank and new fuel line. It seems to run good for the 3 seconds though. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Re: wd4 problem

also carb screws are set and i have the my gas mixed right. I tried squirting premix into carb while running but its hard to crank the motor then quickly grab the bottle and squirt before it dies by yourself. But it didn't seem to help anyway. Could a coil heat up and quit working that quick? Plus could i have a stuck valve maybe?

Re: wd4 problem

I'm confused. You rebuilt the carb, but it leaks in a couple of places? Did you replace gaskets? Not get the old gasket completely off? did you rod out all the passages of the carb or at least blow it out with compressed air? Sounds like it gets some gas to crank it, but not enough to keep it going. I'm suspecting that your carb needs going through again especially if it's leaking.

Link to the scan of my WD-4S Owner's manual

Re: wd4 problem

A wise mechanic once told me "If it has ignition,carburetion and compression
it HAS to run. If it will start and run a bit several times, ignition and
compression are off the hook. Tillotson AJ 8 A or B carburetor is a zinc
die casting prone to corrosion if left exposed to moisture especially
the small interior passages. Carburetor with pitting and white powdery corrosion is a poor bet...on the other hand a carburetor showing the yellowish tinge of factory anti corrosion/sealant is almost certainly good and may only need a kit and some spray can carburetor cleaner followed by compressed air if you have it. Installing a filter in fuel line is not a bad idea either. In tank filter may or may not function...may even be plugged
a long soak in lacquer thinner if suspect.

Poor compression may be due to stuck rings which may respond to spray
tune up or not. The other option is tear down of power head...something
you probably can do but would rather not at this point. A fellow I met at
a meet shared the opinion that after 50+ years the old Kiekhaefers need
to be torn down, parts inspected (replaced as needed) and assembled with
new rings, gaskets and crankshaft, driveshaft and water pump seals...a
good repaint and decals to top things off. A NICE original motor should
not given full cosmetic treatment but may still need the tear down if it is
to run at its best.

50% of a tear down is stuck fasteners and crud, 30% is cleaning parts of paint,crud and old gaskets. Painting,reassembly and adjusting is the least
difficult part. Prior mechanical work may show up as missing fasteners,
electrical tape wrapped ignition wire, wrong spark plugs, and damaged
parts...good work leaves little to show it has been done...poor workmanship
leaves a broad trail.

Re: wd4 problem

i cleaned the carb very well, cleaned out all the passages and even let it soak in chem dip for a while. It leaks around the front adjustment screw, and around the butterfly shaft. not the choke on front, the butterfly.If my crankcase seals are wore out could that cause it to do what it's doing? there is some oil under the magneto plate.

Re: wd4 problem

Did you use packing on adjustment needle shaft? That should stop leakage but
may need a little effort to get it just so. The metal filter in tank that is
part of shut off can be soaked clean or removed and replaced with an in line
filter from lawn mower shop. If you have some fine brass screen and some
soldering skills filters can be made.
If you find oil and gunk on top of power head and on magneto plate is an indication that top crankshaft seal is not sealing. That seal can be removed and replaced without taking power head apart. The fly in ointment is removing and instaling magnet rotor (Bendix) as it is a tight fit and sometimes more tight than fit. The preferred method requires Mercury Service Tools. I have made several copies of the installing tool set but the removing tool not as easily made. Not all had Bendix magneto.

For what it is worth...I have taken apart a fair number of early Kiekhaefer
made outboards, seals, impellers and coils are usually in need of replacement
and seals are the least expensive.