Just got this old motor and after searching high and low can't find a picture of what it would have looked like new in 1940. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Doug Williams
doug@thedougwilliamsgroup.com

http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k538/dougwilliams1/Wizard/002_zpsb0937616.jpg

Wizard WA3 similar to Mercury K2 (first year 1940 models) made by Kiekhaefer
East Coast Marine has pictures of K1 and K2
Louis

Thank you very much Louis. I will try to find East Coast Marine now...Doug

Wizard WA3 serial number range is 100 thru 1102...that may/may not mean
the actual production was 1002 units...
Mercury K2 serial number range is 1001 thru 2300. Starting serial number
above zero was a common practice then...served to assure dealers and
customers the product was more popular and proven than was actually the case...also served to throw a little dust in eyes of rivals seeking to know
how well your product was selling.
Survival rates on these prewar outboards must be pretty high as they are
not that hard to find...more often incomplete, stuck or busted than complete and in runing condition. Replacement parts are another story. Some items
are common to all models and postwar production and easily
found. Other items are unique to a single year low production model.
Finding New Old Stock parts even for postwar models is uncommon. For most
items you have several choices...buy a parts motor or buy parts from
someone who salvages motors...from time to time someone breaks down
an outboard and auctions it on ebay.
I attend club swap meets with a wish list,some mad money and a pair of
gloves...you never can tell what is at the bottom of the box of greasy
grimy parts tucked under the tailgate of the truck parked next to you.
The first rule for finding what you are looking for is to know what you
are looking for. Second rule is, if you don't see what you are looking
for ask. Third rule is when you find what you are looking for don't
let go of it until you own it.
Louis

Good advise Louis, I can attest to the last tidbit of not letting go of something until you own it.

Thank you for that information about serial numbers and the advice about finding parts. I joined a local chapter and will be going to my first meet on January 5. I have gotten Peter Hunn's book and using ebay to find what additional information I can about Western Auto in the 40's. Mr. Poole has also been very helpful. Thanks to all....I will be posting some pictures of my progress in the next few days.

Doug Williams

I was able to free the lower unit this evening...making progress. Here is a picture. Have some parts that need to be replaced, but most of it is in real good shape considering it is 72 years old, without ObamaCare.

Any tips on parts location or guys who can make them up for me is appreciated. I see where I can get the gasket....so mostly need the damaged cover that went over the "occilator". It was damaged when a piece of the prop casting ripped out.

The motor turns over real nice now. Next thing I am going to have to figure out (first time I have done this) is how to determine if the magneto is putting out spark....then on to that carb (which will be easy).



Thanks for the help so far.....notice the 16 water intake holes!!!

Doug Williams, Miami, Florida

There is a prop from a KB1 on ebay now. A tad pricy.
The cover for water pump housing can be made on lathe using old cover as a guide,,,start with 1/8" aluminum. Later versions are brass disc with a slot instead of a hole to locate and prevent rotation. If the "pin" is worn
away drill a hole and drive in a bit of stainless steel wire.
Stuck lower unit...did you count teeth on driveshaft pinion(12) and prop shaft gear(22)? Sometimes you find either a twin gear set 14/19 or a mismatch...which will not work.
There may be a slotted brass plug in gear case. They often are frozen
by corrosion to aluminum gear case. Not worth removing as either plug
or case or both can be damage in trying.
There are two types of propeller for K Models (prior to KE4) The have
a 1/2" bore...early props are set up for a sheer pin only while the later
versions can use the rubber clutch assembly or can be used with a sheer pin. So you can look for either type...some props look similar but have opposite
direction of rotation.
The screws and lockwashers that secure water pump housing to gear case
are specific to that location.
Louis

Correction, brass plug is in water pump housing...best left alone.
Magneto check for prewar models with iron magnets...hold screwdriver by
handle and "hang" so tip is near the end of magnet on outter edge
of flywheel...if attracted...judge strength...a strong magnet equals a
strong spark if all else is ok. I use electrical contact cleaner to wash
off grease and dirt without leaving a cleaning residue. A failed upper
crankshaft seal allows fuel/oil mix to spray magneto...gas evaporates
oil attaracts and holds dirt. Seal replacement usual with prewar motor.
As you take things apart it is important to note details...tank notes,
pictures and sketch...you may be able to remember everything when you
reassemble or maybe like me you skip a step and have to go back and
start over.
Have Fun.
Louis

Went up to the machine shop this morning to have a replacement made for what I thought was a damaged washer that goes over the occilator. Closer I looked at it I realized that the hole in the thing was supposed to be there...some of the casting pieces had lodged in that hole, which made it look like a tear. Anyway.....dug the stuff out and with a little wire brushing was able to repair the part to like new condition.

Did the gear count and it is original and correct.

So....a little more cleanup and then will be putting everything back together today.

Followed your advice and took pictures...so it should go back together easy.

Thanks again for the help...having fun.

Doug