I cannot get the fly wheel to come loose from the crank shaft. It looks pretty straight forward. Remove nut and washer slide off flywheel but i am not able to slide this off. I just wanted to know if it just needed a little elbow greese or if there is a trick to this. let me know.
I have removed a number of flywheels with only one
Usual procedure as follows:
1)after removing nut that secures flywheel install
7/16"x20tpi fine thread nut to protect crankshaft
2)install flywheel removal tool using the three
1/4"x20tpi? coarse thread screw holes in flywheel
3)tighten the forcing screw to draw tension on the
4) bop the end of forcing screw once with soft hammer
(I use lead or brass) If the flywheel has been
serviced in last couple of decades this is usuall
all that is required
Flywheel puller can be made if you are handy otherwise
auto parts store harmonic balancer tool can be purchsed. When installing the three screws be careful
that they do not to protrude inside of flywheel as
you may snag a coil...and that may cost you $$$
Really stuborn flywheels: leave under tension...sometimes they "jump" off with a bang...
Propane or MAAP gas torch heating of area of flywheel
next to crankshaft will work too as it expands hub
taper and releases "grip." Most recent toughie defied
all methods so I tried an old timers suggestion...
heat the flywheel and melt a little wax into the
joint between flywheel and crankshaft...
WORKED like a charm!
When reinstalling flywheel...taper in hub and on
crankshaft MUST be dry and clean....no oil,wax dirt
or corrosion AND flywheel thread also have to be
dry and clean also AND torqued to correct value..
loose or tight are NOT good. The taper of flywheel and crankshaft "lock up" when correctly torqued.
Too much touque will split flywheel hub and too
little will shear flywheel key or even loosen up
and let flywheel fly away...
The size of three screws may be right or not...measure. Although it is called pulling a flvwheel it is more like persuading. Large Hammer
approach may not work and may damage. Be gentle.
Well the fly wheel did come right off with my puller tool, right off as in giving a couple smacks with a rubber mallet when there was tension on it, but I do have an issue. The breaker cam over the drive shaft was broken. I need to replace this is there a good place to look or part number to use in finding this piece?
Model identificaton F 189 F is stamped into top of flywheel. All Repco/Phelon magnetos are not the same
so look for cam from F 189 F. Others may fit and may or may not work. I have been informed that keyway
slot location varies so some cams may open points
at correct time and others may not.
Place a free ad in webvertizer and/or look up the several on line sites that offer parts and ask.
Flywheel is located by key/keyway and locked into
position by torque applied to flywheel nut.
The taper in hub of flywheel and taper on end of
crankshaft lock up if correct torque is applied
so it is best to look up torque value and use
a torque wrench to tighten...and perhaps to retighten
after a short period of use. Tapers work only when
clean and dry...use solvent to remove all trace
of lube or dirt. In extreme cases it is sometimes
best to lap with valve grinding paste to obtain
a close fit. I did that once to salvage a crankshaft
from a stuck motor that someone had attempted to
unstick with a pipe wrench applied to taper.
Well thanks for the info. I was just wondering if a KD4 shares the same megneto as the WG4 because I have found two seperate cams for a KD4 but Ian not sure if they would work.
Compare the bad cam with possible replacement(s)
position of keyway slot and "lift" have to be at
same locations on cams in order for ignition points
to coordinate with piston position.
If you see no difference give cam a try..right or
wrong will be evident and do no harm except to
use up your time. Cam should be installed correctly...some are marked with arrows others
will only fit one way.