I just purchased a wg-4 and have gone through the entire motor everything is in order I am left with three things that I need to do and just wanted a little insight to the best ways. I want to put an inline fuel filter as opposed to the tank one that is currently there. I need to take care of the float on the fuel regulator either replace it or super glue the existing one. And finally I was going to replace the impeller with a new one, but I am having issues with the pin that holds the water pump compartment together basically it will not come out and I know it is the clutch drive so I really can't force it too much. Any solutions or insight into the best way to do these task as I have not began any of them. I am thinking the best thing with the pin is to take it to a shop and have it taken apart and checked but really don't want to spend the money on it unless I have to.

Review the picture series posted here. Your WG4 has
same gearcase and waterpump housing.If waterpump
has not been serviced recently you may find crud
and corrosion make it "interesting." Excessive force
is not required. Smooth propshaft with fine emery
paper before withdrawing it thru bearing in water
pump housing. Seal in waterpump is a standard C/R.
If you have questions we have answers.
Louis
Impeller is same part number as KE3 and prior K Models

Ok so I went and looked at my water pump housing again the clutch drive pin is completely bent. It seams like possibly there was too much torque placed on the prop or it hit a rock and completely bent the pin. I do not have the tools to take the pin out and figure if I did I would need a replacement. I am going to plan on taking it to the local repair shop to have the pin removed and the impeller looked at and washers etc replaced. I am just wondering if there is any other suggestions on getting this bent pin out other than having a professional remove it and replace it.

It is all about the relative value of time...yours vs
the shop's hourly rate needed to cover all expenses and hopefully make a profit.
Removing pin (even bent into figure S) is not a big
problem...worst case use Dremel tool with fiber cutoff disc to chop off end and drive thru opposite
way with punch. Making a new pin from 3/16" brass rod (I purchase 3 foot section at Lowe's for less than $4)
cut to length and round ends with file.
The economics of old outboards favor hobby. Old outboards are cheap because they do not run. Everyone
wants to brag about the rare old gem they bought out
a barn and had only to put in gas and pull it over
and it started right up. They may leave out of the
story that it overheated and seized up or maybe it
really did not start for the same reason that a long
ago owner left it in the barn.
Restoring an old outboard motor to use usually requires some time, some tools, some technique,some
understanding and lots of patience. Relatively few
parts required, but almost always an impeller.
A photo of bent pin would be helpful.
Louis

First off thanks for the help. Now I did get the pin out and had to go to extremes. I cut the ends of the pin off on the ends and still it wouldn't budge so I centered it on my drill press and put an 1/8" hole through the pin and finally it came free. I don't recommend this because drilling through the drive shaft is easy to do on accident. Anyways I found that the pin was actually crumpled up inside the shaft I doubt this is common. So I do plan on making a trip to lowes or home depot for the rods and I think the last thing I need to do is check and or fix the float in the fuel regulator. One question I have is what would you recommend me use to insure my gas tank is clean I know there are products out there but didn't know if one was preferred.

Thanks again.

Sounds like you have your ways to get things done!!!
Tank cleaning methods and materials will vary. I really depends upon how dirty tank is.
Tank cleaning may be as simple as sloshing some strong ammonia (extra strength hardware store item)
and rinse,rinse and rinse some more. If fuel was left
in tank and turned to crud I have used lacquer thinner
and patience. Corosion may require shake shake shake
with ammonia and steel shot or nuts and bolts...I use
BB's...followed by rinse rinse and rinse some more.
First be sure tank is worth effort.Cast aluminum tanks have been known to leak at seams. I have heard of cast tanks being opened up BUT finding something to seal and hold tank halves together seems to be a problem. I once had a KD3 tank that someone had
welded all the seams. Looked sloppy but that tank
would never leak.
Louis