Opened up the lower unit today.

All looks okay so far except for two snags.

1)Any suggestions on how to persuade the impeller cover plate to come out?

2)When removing the impeller housing assembly from the leg I discovered that the lower section of it that encompasses the bolt hole was broken. I'm thinking of just trying to use some JB Weld to fix it. Sound like an appropriate thing to try? Never used the product before, but have heard good things.

Here's a pic of my dilemma

http://www.flickr.com/photos/76000472@N04/6825259597/in/photostream

Good picture, bad parts. It is doubtful that JBWeld
could do the job. It is a wonderful product but by
the looks of things you would be better advised to
seek a replacement.
If the brass cover is stuck in place slam housing down on a piece of wood...that will get it loose
and not do any further damage.
Note: remove spring retainer and drive pin first.

The screws and lock washers that secure assembly to
gear case are special undersize items...regular
size will not fit...early K Models have a number
of odd length fasteners that go in specific spots
and the only two that fit water pump...tag fasterners
as to where they came from and hope any prior mechanic
did the same.
Louis
I have a spare water pump housing not perfect but
good where it counts. email if interested.
Also have some other odds and ends if anyone
is after parts send me a list...not everything
but maybe what you need. Pack Rat

I let some Liquid Wrench marinate in the assembly for a little while and then smacked it face down a few times. Cover plate problem solved. Stay tuned for the resolution of the broken housing. I might be searching for a replacement....

Pictures Please! Show condition of impeller...did you
find it usable? If so, invest a dollar in a lottery
ticket...you may be on roll.
Louis

You be the judge as I'm no expert. What do you think? Is it worth dropping $40 on a new one? It looks usable to me, but that is my novice opinion. Also, what do you think of my repair of the housing assembly? I think it looks pretty good. I will have to see if it holds up to being bolted to the leg.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/76000472@N04/6834245073/in/photostream

Also, any ideas on how to get the remains of the seal out the assembly there by the brass bushing? That old black rubber material is extremely hard to remove and I don't want to score the metal it's attached to while trying to clean it out. Are there any kind of solvents that can be applied to soften it up?


http://www.flickr.com/photos/76000472@N04/6834246843/in/photostream

Another pic of the cleaned up and repaired housing and the condition of the impeller. Fire away with opinions/suggestions.


http://www.flickr.com/photos/76000472@N04/6834246239/in/photostream

Invest $1 of savings in a lottery ticket. Arms all bent in same direction. If all arms can be bent without a deep crack opening up you are one lucky newbie. I would monitor temperature of motor when in use and check impeller from time to time as it has seen much of its useful life.
Repair to water pump housing break can not be seen.
Removal of old seal from housing may involve some
cutting, prying and some unavoidable damage to seal
pocket...which can be fixed with a dab of JB Weld
I believe there is a full discusion of this in a
prior thread including seal number.
Critical to seal performance is condition
of shaft where seal rides. Also important to polish
off roughness before pulling shaft thru bearing to
avoid scratching bearing. Lube shaft prior to
sliding thru seal to prevent damage to seal lip.
There is also a prior discussion thread on shims
and gear lash. Correct gear lash reduces gear noise
and wear. Prior mechanics often fail to reinstall
which will lead to rapid gear wear. Shims also
rust. Gears,prop shaft, water pump, clutch, prop nut/
washer /rubber bushing are simple looking but each has
specific requirements if the unit as a whole is
give good service life.
Louis