I had 5 left hand covers with grooves or punch damaged
tool holes...or both. Cleaned covers up with strong
solution of Purple Power and then hand wire brush.
Need a good clean surface so JB Weld would not peel off, mixed up JB Weld per instructions, applied to
covers overfilling gouges and grooves...both sides
and set on aluminum foil...wax paper would have been
better as JB Weld will not stick to wax.
Waited a few days for JB Weld to set up hard.
Wet or dry abrasive paper on flat surface with lots of
water flush ground off JB Weld from abrasive paper...
used fine grade I had on hand.
Rub RuB and Rub in a figure 8 pattern to equalize
removal...rinsing off paper and cover as needed...
with very little effort covers smooth with grooves
and gouges filled level to surface.
Note: a)I do not know how JB Weld will hold up in use
b)Next time I will fill threads with wax or grease to
prevent excess JB Weld getting in threads...a real
job and a half to remove and leave good thread.
Nice technique. I have been filling pit holes in the water pump cavity itself with the quick JB weld.
Has anyone made a stainless steel plate insert that you can put behind the screw on cover foe a good wear resistant surfaqce?
I do not know how JB Weld surface will wear over time
but given condition of covers worth trying.
Water pump housing or water pump cartridge sometimes pretty eaten up or grooved...if you are going to use
JB Weld or similar material be sure to use a strong
solution of Purple Power or similar to completely
remove all traces of grease and dirt and then dry
before applying JB Weld...a clean surface so a good bond forms.
Stainless steel is an all encompassing name for a series of alloys with greatly different qualities..
If you have access to a screw cutting engine lathe
and a modest level of skill you can make up covers
in your choice of metal or plastic...left hand threads are actually less difficult...right hand threads generated as you cut toward the headstock
and left hand threads generated as you cut away from
the headstock...its all about direction and 29 degrees right or left setting.
You will need to start with material 5/16" to 3/8"
thick and at least 2 1/8" diameter...16tpi left hand
First ones will either be spot on or not...once you have made a few you should be pretty good at it.
Does not have to be a very big lathe but it does
have to be an inch based screw cutting engine lathe
capable of 16 thread per inch...change gear set up
Due to excess JB Weld I will have to chuck up covers
and clean up the threads after picking up the groove...something I could have avoided by working
Not everyone wants/needs to be a machinist or welder.
Those in outboard hobby with the skills and equipment
to weld, machine, paint, cast metal or mold rubber
still find time to fix, restore and run outboards.
Sheet metal skills do wonders for aluminum boats
Restoring an old outboard motor or boat is an opportunity to develope and improve a wide range
of skills...as Henry Ford observed "there are
men who say they can and there are men who say
they can't...both are right" Henry chose to employ
those who said they could.