I have replaced the impeller and the starter cable. I have new gas, cleaned the plugs, plus reset the gap. It pulls hard to get it starting but after working it, it will finely turn over and catch. Then run from a few second to 5 - 10 minutes then stall out.
Not sure what to do now to keep it running. It is out putting a strong air water spray showing that the water pump is working properly. Is it in the High / Low speed adjustments or what? Any guidance?
It is a 1957 Wizard Super 5 Model WH-6a 2G6610
There could be a variety of issues affecting the operation. The fact that it can run up to 10 minutes makes me think it isn't the fuel system. Before we go to far, if the motor is sucking it's own exhaust, that can kill it or make it run poorly. So, when you are running it in a test barrel, have a fan pointed at it to blow the exhaust away.
Now if the doesn't work, what it sounds like to me is you could have bad ignition coils. They might be good enough to get started and run briefly, but after the motor runs for awhile and the coils heat up they fail. You'll have to pop the flywheel off to check them out. If the coating on the coils is cracked, they will need to be replaced. If the motor has sat for a long time, there is a good chance the coils are failing.
While in there, it is worth checking the condition of the points, which will also affect ignition spark. They should be nice and shiney and gapped at.018. These may not be your problems, but they are good things to check out anyway as they quite common repair issues.
I am running the test outside so I lean towards it being the coils and maybe the points, I'll look into those items. Is there a place that would have the coils and points?
I did get the starter cable from Pier 76 in CT.
The model of Wizard is a de-tuned version of Mercury's Mark 6. You can get coils from Jim Judkins (email@example.com), who probably has the best prices on them. You need the Phelon coils, and they are still pretty easily found. If not Jim, you can also get them from:
Unfortunately, they are a bit pricey, but Jim's price is cheaper. I wouldn't replace the points unless they are pitted. Just clean them up with 800 grit sand paper to get them good and shiney. Spray them clean with electrical cleaner or wipe them down with acetone when you are done.
Thanks, JP I will look into this for parts. Bob
JP as I look at the fly wheel, it has 6 holes on top, 3 of a size larger then the other 3. Does not appear to have any screw in them. Is there a special tool need to remove the fly wheel? I have never done this so not sure what steps to follow.
You are going to need a couple basic tools. One is a cheap harmonic balancer puller available at any auto store for cheap (~$10). If you have an Advance Auto, check their bargain bin for the $8.99 one. You'll also need a cheap strap wrench to hold the flywheel in order to remove the big flywheel nut (which you do first).
Three of the holes in the flywheel should take 1/4"-20 bolts. You need to use strong, grade 8 bolts with the puller to attach to the flywheel. Once you have the puller attached with three bolts, and again are holding the flywheel with the strap wrench, give the puller a couple of turns. Eventually the flywheel will pop off.
Here's someone's pictures of pulling a flywheel:
[In lieu of a strap wrench, you can pull the lower spark plug and put short length of rope in the cylinder. This will hold the flywheel in place because the cylinder won't be able to complete a full stroke.]
I have looked at the picture very helpful. Will not get the tools and attempt this project. I will keep you posted at completion, it may take a little while. Again many thanks!!! Bob
JP I have taken the flywheel off and in th process of testing the coils, condensers and spark plug wires. Is there an easy way to pull out the plug wire from the coil with out doing damage? Sorry about the typo in my last note. I meant to say when I get the tools.