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WM7A Super 10

I just recently purchased a my first wizard. I have been looking it over and have discovered that it is not getting enough juice from the coils to spark the plugs. However it will give you a mild jolt if you do the "old screwdriver ground to the motor" and hold the screwdriver. Is it possible that the contenders are bad.... will create a low voltage.....?...te engine has really good compression so I have not dismantled anything other than the flywheel. The coils have also been sanded which tells me that someone else has attempted to revive the motor also. The points are in good shape and not burnt (not sure what the gap should be but they look to have the typical "match book cover" gap which I think is about .025). I would also be interested in getting a repair manual if anyone knows where to get such an animal. Does anyone know the gas/oil mixture.....???......I am going to change the gear oil in the lower section also. I found the plug at the bottom. Is this the drain & fill plug or is there another fill plug and what is that I am overlooking the fluid capacity....?

Re: WM7A Super 10

On an engine design where the cyinders are cast into
the block or crankcase check compression FIRST.
You want to see even compression at a level normal
for that engine in good condition. Poor compression
that improves after a squirt of oil thru spark plug
hole probably means worn or stuck rings....if you
are lucky that's all you find during a teardown...
usually you find more...some a little bad some a
lot bad.

Magneto creates spark.If you have a nice blue white
spark that will jump 1/4" gap don't touch a thing you are there! Unfortunately that is likely not where you are at. Coils don't always go bad on a long disused
outboard...sometimes they were bad when it went into storage. Magnetos have only a few components so learning ins and outs and a few basic tests and
techniques will suffice.

Lower units are pretty standard when it comes to
lube...lower screw is a fill/drain and upper screw
is a vent/fill indicator. You open both and allow
old lube and water to drain...perhaps using WD40
spray in vent to help flush...allow to drip dry
and fill thru bottom screw until lube comes out
vent...install vent screw and then drain hole screw.
Most nonshift motors use a grease designed for outboard gear case use AND most shift motors
use a lube as specified by maker. If seals are
good and seal surfaces good no reason not to do so.

It is normal to hope for an outboard motor that "only
needs gas and one pull on the starter" Realisticly
that is seldom the case with an old outboard found
in basement, barn or outbuilding...MANy not all
old outboards can be restored for reliable use
by someone with modest mechanical skills, some needed
replacement parts and a few evenings work.

Re: WM7A Super 10

Louis thanks for the info. I finally have fire to the plugs after sanding and regapping the points. It has great compression and now firing hot...just reassembled the motor and removed the carb for cleaning. Do you or does anyone know any thing about the cork in the carb .......looks like a float but is not acting like a float should.....have not really done anything with it because I don't want to mess it up. I have cleaned all the jets & etc......this is the final piece of the puzzle.....then it will be time to see if she will fire up and run.....

Re: WM7A Super 10

How do you mean not acting like a float should?
Traditional carburetor float is made from cork
coated with shelac (sp?) Cork float is sealed to
prevent it from absorbing gasoline and gaining
weight. Traditional gasoline not a problem, however
modern motor fuel contains alcohol which removes
coating and allows cork to absorb gasoline.
Float has to be light to lift float rod when
float well fills with gasoline...if float gains
weight too much fuel is available and carburetor
gives engine too rich a mix for good performance
or fuel economy.
Replace with modern closed cell plastic float or dry out and seal cork float with material that is not affected by alcohol or gasoline such as model
airplane fuel proof dope or thinned epoxy.
Depending upon engine and carburetor floats can
be plastic, cork or a thin wall copper can...all
do same job... to maintain fuel level in float well
or carburetor bowl within a hi/low range.
Very similar in function to float/valve arrangement
in toilet tank (old style anyway)