I just aquired a very nice 1953 WG4 with the Phelon coil setup. This motor looks like it's been ran about 10-20 hours since new and the powerhead has almost perfect paint.

Serial Number: 512814

Both condensors need to be replaced. Both coils test out great. Can I use a set of Sierra condensors, Part number 18-5206 that equates to the Merc 398-693 used on the Mark 6? I had a new set around that I bought for my mark 25 and didn't use. Or do I need to use Mercury 398-713 that were used on the Phelon Mark 5 and KE4's?

Any information you could shed on this topic would be benefical. Hopefully I can use the 398-693 condensors. Great forum here. I look forward to picking up more wizards along the way.

Regards,

Dan Smith
AOMCI member
Overland Park, KS

Wizard WF4 and WG4 models use Phelon (Repco) F189F magneto which uses FG216 condensor rated at .15 to .19 Mfd. Wizard WH6 also uses a FG216 series condensor with the same range of Mfd values.
Mark 6 uses condensonr FG1770 which is also
rated at .15 to .19 Mfd
KE4 uses FG607 condensor also rated .15 to .19 Mfd.
This is from reliable OEM source material so you
can go to NAPA or your local favorite source of
supply and match the Mfd value with a condensor
that will fit the space available and has a long
enough wire lead.
Mfd=Micro Faraday unit of electrical value
for measuring condensors ...
Phelon (repco) made the magneto and had their own
part numbering system, Kiekhaefer used magnetos
from various sources and sold replacement parts
thru its dealers using Kiekhaefer's part number
system. After market parts use the part numbering
system of their choice usually cross referenced
to one or both of above. Condensors may or may
not have been made by Phelon...they may have
sourced elsewhere. Selling replacement parts and
service was a source of ongoing profit for all
until normal attrition of model meant there
was not enough business to go around.
Short answer is each of the condensors has the
same electrical value...will they fit and is
the pig tail wire long enough?
I have been told that if points show even wear/
build up not to replace them as they have a good
electrical value match to magneto...don't ask
me if this is a good practice...I do not know.
Louis

Louis,

Thanks for the response. According to the past issue of the Outboarer, Merc. 398-693 has a mF value of .15 to .19. For this particular motor, the Sierra 18-5206 or Merc 398-693 will work and the leads are long enough.

I think Merc. 398-713 would work as well since the mF range is .14-.18.

Thanks for the thorough explanation. I hope this helps others in the future.

Dan

Consider this a very good post for the few of us in cyber world who can use the information. I happen to have 2 1951 WG-4's that I plan on getting around to restoring simply because I have them and will use them, not necessarily for their value as antiques. One of the motors appears to have frozen gears in the gear case the other has bad coils. My problem with that one is that I don't have a clue where to get coils for the old phelon ignition system.... THANKS for your post!

Jim Judson sells replacement coils and from time
to time advertises on AOMCI Webvertise...said to
be good quality and competivively priced.
There have been several after market coil suppliers
as well as Repco( R E Phelon. Phelon is still in
business although moved from Mass to N. Carolina(?)
At meets you can sometimes find a junk motor with
good coils or a pile of parts including a complete magplate...you have to know what you are looking
for in order to find it.
For absolutely unfindable OEM coils the possibility of
adapting a more common coil exists and has been
done by those with a strong desire to get their
motor running. Sometimes this is surprisingly easy
to do...there are a lot of lawnmowers, and small
engines that use magnetos besides outboards so
a trip to local lawnmower shop's junk pile may
yield something that will work.
When the parts counter clerk says "no longer
available" it only means you have to activate
your gray matter.
General Patton also had a problem with ignition parts
his tanks,trucks and jeeps needed and the army supply systen was unable to supply quickly...an NCO commented that local Sears Roebuck store sold similar ignition parts...General Patton said "get them" and "send me the bill." Problem solved.
A friend had an old shotgun which several gun smiths
said could not be fixed due to lack of parts(springs)...turns out the so called experts were too lazy...it took very little effort to located a source of all of the missing parts and little time to install them... a good gunsmith could have made up
or adapted the springs rather than let customer's gun sit gathering dust for years.
Anytime you take something in for service or repair
you need to ask how long will it take and how much
will it cost...written estimate including model
and serial numbers on letter head form with name
address and phone number on repair order a copy
for you, tag on item to be repaired and copy for
dealer's file. If a business does not run like a
business do not expect business like results.
Louis
Point of it all is this: "Old" outboards almost always
have issues which sometimes can be resolved by a trip
to local outboard retailer's parts counter or more
often call for more serious effort...some of us even find that is the fun part.
As for lower unit gears, that may not be the problem
you think it is...take a look and post pictures
Worst case is you will need to look for a parts motor...ALL early twin cylinder Kiekhaefer(Mercurys thru KD4 and Wizards thru WG4) use same gears.
They do NEED to be properly shimmed to keep wear
and noise down.