Lower units (water pump and gear case) seem to be
subjects of recurring interest...would parts manual
illustration of the two common types of lower unit
shed enough light on subject to be worth the effort
to post on site?
If so, I can provide.
Louis

Louis,

That seems like a good idea. Maybe if you email Jason Baxter he can actually add the files to a page on the website so that your postings don't get buried over time.

JP

Hello fellow Wizard Motor Enthusiasts,

I finally added the first set of pictures Louis sent me a few weeks ago the other night and will add the next sets in about a week. I thought I would've had it done by now, but work is consuming a lot of my time. In the last two weeks I worked 76hrs and 72hrs respectively. In addition, this last week I moved boats while the ground was still frozen after I got home and didn't get into the house until almost 11. Oh well, we're suppose to slow down beginning this week, but we'll see. I do appreciate Louis sending the pictures as they will be a great reference source. If you go to this site's homepage and click on "Lowerunits" at the top of the page, you'll see the first set.

Sincerely,
Jason Baxter
Wizard Site Moderator

Corrections: a couple of captions could stand
improvement...
1)singles and twins use different SETS of gears
2) impeller drive pin also engages clutch...only
one pin involved
3) This set of pictures is for the impeller style
waterpump. Note also there is a rubber insert
washer in end of propeller. The propeller nut
bears on a smaller diameter steel washer to
compress the propeller,clutch and drive pin
together...all of the components are shown
...last item: when assembling, GREASE the prop
shaft with waterproof grease if you
want to get it apart easily in future.

Errors have a way of creeping in due to sloppy
thinking on part of yours truly..
Props, prop shaft diameters and models
ALL K models up to and including KE3 use prop
shaft p/n 44 24436 1/2" diameter
KE4 and Mark 7 use prop shaft p/n 44 22399 9/16" dia.
All models use propeller with an MB 209 casting number
BUT...they vary...1/2" shaft propellers
Prewar non rubber clutch shear pin is p/n 48-24419
(K thru KB2)
Rubber clutch models p/n 48-24418 (KB3 thru KE3)
KE4 and Mark 7 propeller have the same MB 209 casting
number but are bored 9/16" p/n is 48-24477
KE7,KF7,KG7 and KG4 are a more complex subject with
3 prop shafts and 8 propeller part numbers
Early Sea King, Wizard and Mercurys made by Kiekhaefer are easier to sort out than the
later Wizard and Mercury models as to what will
or will not interchange. Those with actual hands
on experience have found some interesting
possibilities of interchange not dreamed
of at factory...some with amazing performance
some without.

Louis-
Those photos are VERY helpful! Thanks for posting them. Do you have a parts diagram for the WG4 that you can post?

Question: When I took out the retaining ring, I had great difficulty removing the plate that covers the water pump. Couldn't get a grab on it. Scuffed it up pretty good. Live and learn.
-David

When working on old machinery of any kind you find
crud and corrosion interfere with disassembly the
first time you take things apart. Damaging or
breaking or losing components is an occupational
hazzard...I am still looking for the float rod
hair pins from my first several episodes with
Tillotson AJ series carburetors...sometimes the
answer is to improve your technique or work in
a clean well lit area where the lost might sometimes
be found. As for the brass disc...I have used
wet or dry abrasive paper to smooth out things.
I have an appointment with my lathe when some
1/8" aluminum comes to hand...prewar water pump
with badly worn cover...it could also be made with patience,a file and a drill press.
The hair pins are not infrequently missing, but, not
to fear they are a staple of carburetor repairs
and NAPA had them...I bought a dozen. Hardware store
is good source of fasteners...nuts, washers, several
types of lock washers...carburetors especially
seem prone to corroded or missing items.
I feel I can do a tutorial on Tillotson AJ gravity
feed carburetors,once you know the routine they clean up quickly...bear in mind no repair can be counted
a complete success until it is installed and in use
...old carburetors are prone to clogged or corroded
interior passages...unless looks good is sufficient
the real test is how well does the motor run and
how smoothly does it idle.

I'd welcome your tutorial on a carburetor rebuild.

Louis in your pictures on the lower units one of the captions states " Pin pushed into groove to remove or install. A second pin engages the clutch assembly. " on mine the same pin that drives the propeller clutch also drives the water pump. there is a second hole farther up the prop shaft, but I was told you only use that to drive the propeller if you are not using the clutch assembly. Have I been told wrong?

It is very difficult to write copy and proof read your
own work...you read what you thought you wrote not
what you actually wrote. See the followup posting
where I fessed up to this and several more errors.
The same drive shaft was used on early shear pin
models and later rubber clutch models...the extra 3/16" hole toward the propeller end was for the shear pin used with the earlier type propeller.
Some of the clutch models I have taken apart had the
impeller drive pins bent into a slight "S" shape
by prop hitting something extra tough...when replacing
pins I use 3/16" brass rod.