I've been thinking about offering a deck renewal service as spring rapidly approaches. I've been trying to figure out how to do this with equipment I already own, rather than have to go out and buy a pressure washer. Today I tried stripping the deck in my own yard in a couple of different ways. First I tried screen sanding with my Challenger and a 60-grit screen. This removed some of the old semi-transparent finish, but not enough of it to satisfy me. Next I applied some deck stripping product, and again used my Challenger, this time with a FiberMax pad. This was an improvement, but didn't get all of the stain off. I then fired up my steam vapor machine, and with one of the brush attachments, scrubbed away by hand at the remaining pockets of stain. This got it all out, but it was slow and tiring. Next, using the same stripping product, I went at another area with my Challenger and its Tile & Grout Brush. Despite it being only 36 degrees F., the Challenger scrubbed everything off. These stripping products are supposed to be used in much warmer weather. I then hosed off the loosened, liquified stain and stripper mix, and I had a new looking deck. One concern I had was that the T&G brush might leave swirl marks, but there don't appear to be any.

the swirl marks MAY become noticable once ya re-apply the stain!!

In that case, they could probably be made to disappear with one quick pass with the U-Sand machine. This is a random orbital sander (available for rent at all Home Depots) with 4 separate 6" heads.
The videos on its website (http://www.cherryhillmfg.com) have several shots of it sanding decks, and I've found many online postings saying it sands decks and floors without swirl marks.
It might be able to do the entire job in some situations. With its weight, it might possibly be a great encap cleaning machine for really dirty commercial carpets.

What would you charge if you were using a true sander machine like the U Sand for instance to do a deck stripping/sealing job?

Would you still have to use the op w/ t/g brush than follow it with the U Sander if there were any swirl marks?

You can probably strip fences as well with a makita and a t/g brush at a high rpm? It goes from 600-3000rpm's variable speed.

I'm still working on my pricing. Based on what I've done so far (experimenting on my own 2 decks during the past week) the Challenger with its Tile & Grout brush is the best machine I've used. My rented U-Sand machine worked great where the boards were absolutely level, but couldn't sand when there was much of any unevenness between one board and the next. (The U-sand enables anyone to sand floors indoors professionally) The Challenger, T&G, and a decent stripping product get right down to bare wood very quickly. Then all you have to do is hose it all off. No pressure washer needed. And I was stripping 2 decks that had a very strong coat of sealant that was just applied last year. And since these decks are in shady areas of our yard, the finishes had barely been affected by the sun's UV rays.

After cleaning or stripping (no need to strip and then clean - there's nothing left to clean - ) I would suggest using a brightener/neutralizer (acid wash). This helps to bring out the maximum amount of the wood's natural color, AND it is very effective in making the surface of the wood highly receptive to whatever stain you use to seal the deck. I would suggest using a semi-transparent stain. Clear sealants offer little or no UV protection. Solid stains are likely to blister and peel.

Mark,

Have you done it on your client's deck yet?

Which coats are you putting down? Anything out there that is considered green for us that have a green company?

I have not yet done a paying customer's deck. I've stripped my own 2 decks, and a friend's deck. Haven't sealed one yet.
Re. the "green" issue: a line of deck products called DEFY (http://www.saversystems.com) is green certified by the Master Painters Institure (MPI).
One interesting new "nano" product from Defy is its clear deck sealer which contains trillions of tiny zinc oxide particles, which enable a clear product to filter the sun's UV rays. It is UV light which causes horizontal outdoor wood to turn gray.

Also check out the BioWash line of deck products,made in Canada by Napier. (http://www.biowash.com) These are also available at OPW-Decks online
(http://www.opwdecks.com). OPW sells many lines of deck products. I've found 2 sealants/stains that can be applied before the cleaned or stripped deck has fully dried out. These are BioWash's Natural Deck Oil, and Wood Tux, available at OPW.

Thanks I'll check 'em out.