Hi Mark,
I know you recoat or redo wood floors, What do I need to do this and how, I have a 17 rotory and a op machine. What else wood I need do be able to do wood.
Check out this recording at Pro Cleaners Network titled, " Opportunities and Introduction to Wood Floor Care" . Lots of good info, get your pen and paper ready to write down website and contact info.
Bane Clean website talks about a sandless method of restoring wood floors.
Go to http://www.baneclene.com/ and click the "wood floors" link. That page will give you some info, and on that page click on the " Video CD Rom" hyperlink. It's a traning video that you can purchase for 14.00 bucks.
I used to do my own recoating, but now I subcontract out all of my wood floor work to a sander near me whom I found on AngiesList All the comments posted about him on AngiesList by his customers were rave reviews. So I called him one day and asked if he could sell me his services at a discounted, or wholesale price. He was agreeable to that, and we've had a good working relationship now for a couple of years. For recoat jobs, I pay him .50/s.f. and bill my customer $1.50/s.f. For full sanding followed by 3 coats of polyurethane, I pay him $1.25/s.f., and bill my customer $2 - $2.15/s.f. For a tung oil finish, we each add .25/s.f. to take into account the higher cost of tung oil over polyurethane. I found that when I was offering only my own recoat service, I was looking at too many floors that were poor candidates for recoating, and really required full sanding. Previously I had to pass on those jobs, and now I can handle any floor, no matter how rough - even wood floors requiring some reconstruction to repair damaged boards, threshholds, etc.
When I did my own work, I used a product called Varathane Renewal, which is also marketed as ChemSpec
Rx for Wood Floors. Other quality recoat systems are Bona-Kemi "Prep" and Basic Coatings "Tykote". There are many others as well.
I've even done "quickie" "cheapo" recoating with a product called Quick Shine, made by Holloway House. It's a very thin but fast-drying product, and I've used it primarily with people trying to make their "for sale" houses more attractive.
Most people who do recoating use a standard 175-RPM floor buffer with either a sanding screen or a maroon floorpad to abrade, or condition, the existing finish. Sometimes, with fairly heavy scratches, little patches of fine sandpaper are attached to the maroon pad to eliminate or minimize the scratches. Sanding screens are best used by floor refinishing professionals, as they are more abrasive than pads, and can quickly slice through a urethane finish, right down to the bare wood. At that point the customers is looking at a full sanding job, not a simple recoat.
