Model # ,WBA6506A56 serial # 1405 wizard. 6 hp year 1965. I can start the motor by screwing out on needle valve and make it go faster no going in. Does that valve go bad?
Provided fuel mix is uniform the high speed and low speed needles are pretty much set and forget. When setting up engine to run initially a good enough setting
of high speed needle will get it to start...then fine tune while running under
a load...when engine is warmed up the low speed needle (which also has a good enough setting ) is fine tuned at low speed. Sequence matters fine tune High
Carburetors are prone to being gummed up by OLD fuel, plugged up by dirt
and corroded by water over time. Cork float may have issues as well.
A carburetor cleaning spray and check of float may be in order. If carburetor
is corroded internally the cure is to replace it.
As a rule of thumb "Grease, Grime and Oil are good while Bare Metal may
be a very bad sign" Reason for that expression being a good guide is an
outboard stored in out of weather retains the unsightly but protective
layers of crud while an outboard left outside exposed to rain, snow and
perhaps rodents and insects may suffer all the ills that an old outboard
is prone to. A lot of internal issues can be predicted by external looks.
The basics of carb clening are pulling off the carb and dismantling.
Spray carb cleaner, kerosene bath, or comercial carb baths are the norm.
A tooth brush, and, small flat screwdriver helps in scraping crud off, thin wire helps to clean out corroded and gummed up passages and compressed air or carb cleaner spray with the straw attached help determine if the passage in question is clear. Needle valves can go bad, but dirt and old gas are the usual suspects. The needle should have @ 45 degree angle on it where it meets the seat. Often times the numbers on the carb and a google.search will reveal a carb rebuild kit (if needed) and a few YouTube videos will make you an old pro at rebuilding small engine carburetors.