I am rebuilding a 1946 WD-4 and have had an issue removing the float from the bowl on my carburetor. I've taken the two screws out of the top of the bowl as well as the two drain screws out of the bottom. When I try to pull the lid with the float out of the bowl, it slides up about 1/8 of an inch and stops. I didn't want to pull too hard and break it. Motor has been sitting up for 30 years or so. Should I pull it until it comes out? Could the float be stuck to the bowl walls or is there some trick to getting it out. I have cleaned everything up and try starting the motor. I have heard it fire and run for a few revolutions (1 second or so) on three different occasions, but the choke must be all the way out and the throttle wide open. I believe it's starved for fuel which leads me to believe that its in the carburetor. Any advice and help would be appreciated. This is my first outboard to fool with. Thanks Brandon
I believe that is a Tillotson AJ 8 carburetor same as Mercury KD4
Float is secured to float rod by two tiny hair pins, one groove above
float and the other in a groove below float. The float rod is installed
and removed thru bottom while float comes out top. Push the top of rod
DOWN after removing hair pin. Tiny little hair pins like to fly away
to parts unknown and are needed for reassembly. There are several around
my work area somewhere.
Lid of float bowl should not be forced if it seems part of float rod
check for a problem as it is not connected in my experience.
Main problem of Tillotson AJ series carburetor is some have been left out
exposed to elements and have corrosion issues which are best resolved
with a replacement. Cork float can be reconditioned or replaced with a modified
Mercury closed cell foam float.
Do not use a drill to clear passages UNLESS it is the correct size as
specified in service manual for Tillotson AJ series and number.
Carburetor spray cleaner and compressed air are about all you want to
use...easier to find a good replacement than make a bad carburetor good.
A fuel filter either original in tank or an in line will keep dirt and
crud away from a newly service carburetor's critical internal passages.
Keep in mind that you need to think FUEL SYSTEM. Everything from plugged
vent holes to carburetor should be considered and checked. You may find
crankshaft seals leak which will lean out mixture. Two cycle technology
and operation are not exactly like four cycle so you have to adjust how
you approach their issues.
Thanks Louis! The bowl cap had corrosion in the hole that the float rod slides up and down in and was not letting it come off. I got it free, cleaned out the hole, and it seems to be working properly. I took the valve out of the gas tank and found out my in tank filter was clogged. Lots of cleaner and air compressor and it's working. Cranked the motor and it runs! No water was shooting out so I assumed impeller was rotten. Took it all apart and found there was a clog between impeller and exit hole. Got that cleaned out and now I'm at wal-mart getting oil for the foot to hopefully crank and have it running and functioning properly! I'm pretty excited if tall can't tell!
Most older outboards including your Wizard WD4 use GREASE in gear case.
Lubriplate 105 or John Deere Corn Head Grease are usual suggestions.
Oil probably will leak out.
As better manufacturing and seal technology developed oil did become standard
gear case lube. Even so sometimes a later model will have grease substituted for oil due to leakage thru worn shafts and seals. .
Return oil buy grease.
Thanks for the additional input. That's a 105 weight grease? I started the motor tonight and it ran like a top! I guess I need to get some grease and re-fill the lower unit.
Lubriplate 105 is a motor assembly grease available at Napa auto stores. It is handy, as it comes in a big "toothpaste" tube that has a nozzle convenient to apply it into the gearbox hole.
I would guess the viscosity to be slightly above 105, but what do I know.