I've got a decent WF-4 Wizard I'm putting on my 1958 lonestar resto. My grandfather gave me the motor saying it ran a few years ago. After cleaning out all the mud dobbers nests, I noticed the lower head I think it is has been drowned in silicon instead of replacing the gasket. Same thing down low behind the prop. So I was wondering if anyone knew where to get a new gasket kit and a new prop and lower parts... Thanks guys and gals...also a side things, I'm not up to speed on terms and what not but on the very bottom of the motor down behind the prop there's a fin that gown down verticle. That is broken off. Should I replace that? If so where do I find one?
KD-4 is the Mercury Motor the WF-4 is based upon.
Awesome thank you so much. So if i order a kd-4 shaftseal it will be the same? I love this website by the way
From 1940 until 1956/57 Wizard outboards were supplied by Kiekhaefer Corporation whose brand was Mercury. They share many but not all components.
The Skeg on gear case can be repaired by a welder experienced with aluminum.
It probably is less costly to source a good used replacement.
A digital camera and note pad should be at hand so you can retrace your
steps when putting everything back together. The unique design of
Kiekhaefer's Early K Models (sold as Mercury Wizard and a Sea King model)
has several advantages but at least one disadvantage...they will leak
unless gaskets are installed correctly...remove all traces of old gaskets
down to bare metal and use a gasket sealer such as Permatex.
Technique matters...it may be very helpful to do a trial assembly to
understand how it needs to be done and in what order
AND as my old boss said...
"The only stupid questions are the ones that did not get asked"
There are some very experience and patient contributors to this site
who as the saying goes "Been there, Done That"
For entertainment and information review the old posting on this site
especially pictures ( 1 picture = 1,000 or more words)
If you break something it can be replaced...some easier than others though.
Thanks partner. I've done a tear down and dry reinstall of all the lower end parts. I have removed all lower end gasket materials and seals. Waiting for the new parts to come in and my impeller. Once I complete the lower end I will start on the upper. I have started taking off the tank and other things but haven't got Into pulled items with gaskets until I have the new ones in hand.
This lower end is going to be fun. I like the simplicity of it. I found a great disassemble and reassemble post on this forum and it was great for reference.
Also do you where I can find a replacement sceg?
Dude you rock, I've been looking for one. Thank you so much
Even 60 or 70 years on the numbers of Kiekhaefer made Early K Model outboards
mean replacement parts are not rare. It is mostly a matter of knowing
what you are looking for and who to ask.
Gear case was same design for a number of years for Kiekhaefer made outboard
motors whether prewar Sea King single or any Mercury thru KE3 or Wizard
There are several on line parts recycling vendors
Sometimes a free ad on aomci site works
My preferred solution to a parts shortage is another ailing outboard to use
as a parts donor. The problem with that is the perfectly good left over
parts tend to accumulate and worse may lead to purchase of another not quite
right outboard to make use of inventory.
If a welder experienced in marine repair is near you they may be reasonable
enough to justify repair instead of replacement.
Well the second one you showed was a NOS part and they wanted $160 the eBay one was $50. Might try the eBay one. It would cost that much for a welder. Might need some bubblegum and apeice of cardboard haha. So possible stupid question... What's the importance of the "sceg"? Prop protection?
were the lower units plain aluminum? My transom clamp says lynite on the side of the casting (which I have heard is diificult to weld). The leg and lower gear housing is not stamped and may be plain aluminum alloy.
I see the castings on eBay every once in a while for cheap, so I guess it may be worth waiting for a nice part tocome along
Stevens Welding on Griswold Street in Port Huron Michigan has repaired holes
in several leg castings. at least 3 skegs and several cavitation plates for me.
I have from time to time found parts motors for less. That said he does GREAT work and probably just covers his time,material and overhead. Port Huron has some industrial activity as well as a lot of recreational boating. I have seen tool and die work as well as aluminum or stainless marine parts when in his shop.
The repair of aluminum castings, forgings and die cast in various alloys by welding is an ART the mastering of which requires experience. Sometimes a repair
is the way to go and sometimes not. In the past I scrapped items that should have been set aside for possible future repair.
Speaking of parts I posted a lot of Early K Model stuff on aomci free ad site
to 1) clear some space 2) gage the market. I would be glad to hear from anyone
needing something I do not to move their project along.
Parts in a Bin project had a chunk of the skeg broken off the gear housing.
Repaired by welding in a new piece of metal. It required a bit
of filing to smooth weld and profile the new portion. As you can see from
pictures it worked out more than ok. Photo series is on header of this site.
Early K Model Kiekhaefers were composed of die cast and sand cast aluminum
as well as various steel items. As time went on some things changed.
In 1940-41 and postwar KD3-1 the single cylinders crankcases were die cast. Later versions were sand cast. Twin cylinder crankcases seem to be all sand
cast aluminum. Connecting rod, water pump housing, gear case, propeller, copilot clamp, lower crankcase cover,steering handle and water jackets all
seem to be die cast and many apparently made by alcoa. Legs all see to be
sand castings. Clamp assemblies switched from welded up steel stampings to
sand cast aluminum. It is worth noting that even if material remained same
changes evolved the parts...fastener lugs on prewar legs are thin where post
war leg is beefed up. I am working on several prewar and a post war single
at moment and the difference is apparent as is additional machining of those