Recently acquired a nice Wizard WN7, 1955 12 hp. Got it home, pulled the flywheel, cleaned/dressed/regapped the points and I get no fire at all from it. The coils look nice, but the smaller lamination/heel on both coils doesn't line up square with the coil bosses on the stator plate. Below are some photos showing what I mean about the coil laminations (top two photos). Bottom photo shows the condition of the plug wires...haven't had time to test the coils or wires with a volt/ohmmeter yet, but the points are nicely cleaned/dressed and it puts out no spark...hmm.
So what say the Bards, would it run this way or has someone stuck close but not quite coils/laminations on this nice little Wizard?
Did you swap laminates? The laminates are machined once mounted and you really should not swap them around.
Can you post make and model information?
Phelon data numbers stamped into flywheel and cast
into magneto plate may answer your questions.
Coil assemblies may be from a magneto with a different diameter.
Phelon made a small diameter magneto and larger diameter magneto
with the same center center distance of mounting screws. This makes for a
will fit (sort of) won't work situation when interchange is attempted.
Another good reason not to work on more than one project at a time
and also to leave components such as magnetos assembled until time to
work on them one at a time. Having an encased in dirt and crud original
example to use as a reference is very useful in sorting out bad swaps.
I may even have the right armatures.
7mm stranded copper core neoprene jacketed ignition wire is about 50 cents
a foot at auto parts store. Replacing questionable ignition wire is a low
effort low cost high payback repair. Most postwar outboards used black
7mm neoprene jacket so preserving originality is not an issue.
Cloth covered wire for Prewar motors is available at a premium price for those doing as it left factory level restorations.
Haven't swapped laminates around, have taken the coils off to inspect and test them and they do check out as sound. How would numbers stamped on the flywheel and mag plate tell me about coils...guessing they should match, but is there a number to match those on the coil laminates??? Confused...
It does have spark with a tuneup...new wires, clean connections, cleaned/dressed points, etc. The way the laminates line up just kinda freaks me out somehow. Did these come from the factory using Merc Mark 25 laminates, or Mark 20 laminates...seems to be a rats nest of difference when you try sourcing points across the Merc to Wizard spectrum.
1)WN7/WN7A Flywheel and magneto plate should be F 514S
2)Magneto plate is machined to match curve of core when fastened in position
Even so like cores should be good enough matchup given that core
likely were made to a uniform standard. A serious mismatch of coil core
and magneto plate probably due to an unlike core swap.
Phelon used a common pool of components to make a range of magnetos
in same or similar model line. The die cast plate and the coil cores
have a unit part number so no part number for core.
Measure diameter of die cast plate across the opposite coil machined
surfaces an I may be able to match up cores that will fit. Worth a try
and may reduce clutter on bench. Cut and try engineering not blind
F514 series Magnetos started with A and went thru Z Lots of commonality
but 514A used on KF5 series and 514C used on KE4/Mark7 are not same diameter
even though they have many components in common. Phelon was willing to do
as Mercury desired. Mr. Kiekhaefer's background was in practical electrical
engineering so he knew magnetos. He also had gotten an early lesson in tricky nature of magneto suppliers.
Almost have the powermatic back together. Determined that it will fire over and run with the coils/laminations that is has now. Now I need to find a Mercury/Wizard female fuel line connector that fits on the engine-end of the motor. Any ideas what size this is, or a source? Thanks.
Always missing and never cheap.
Well, I put the 55 Wizard WN7 Powermatic 12 in the test barrel today after securing a female fuel fitting on Flebay. It dripped a little gas...very slowly, so I need to revisit the carb float, but it came to life on the fourth pull and ran pretty well in N. I went a little heavy on the fuel/oil mix, 16:1 instead of 24:1 because I wasn't sure and it smoked heavily when I got on the throttle. Was able to smooth it out by slight tweaking of the high and low speed jets, but it wants to die when I drop it in gear with the throttle down in the shift range. Not always, but guess I still have some tuning to do. Is it all right to run this gem at 24:1? And is there a common cause for dogging when it drops into gear? Thanks in advance for any input and for your help in getting this far with it. :)