Hello,

I have a Wizard Super 5 that my grandfather gave me for my 12' jon boat. Some sentimental value in it. When I got it me and my uncle put it in a water bucket and pulled on it. Ended up having no spark. So I ordered coils spark plug wires and the little silver round things. Did not replace the point.

Yesterday my parts came in. I put them all in and still had no spark. So we filed the points. After that we finally had good spark. So we put it together and it took awhile but we got it to fire. About 100 pulls. It pumped water and ran. A little rough running but it had not ran in 20yrs. So we let it run for about 30 mins. And decided to try it out on a small river close to us.

Seems like it running kinda rough and smoky. The throttle knob has all kinds of play in it and it does not idle very good. Seems like you can't make it run slow without it stalling out.

So my question is where do you guys suggest to do next? Adjust the carb some?

My plan with the motor is to get it in good working condition and repaint it. I got new decals for it.

It is serial#839940
Model#WH6

Thanks,

Step one clean carburetor...then set needles 1 turn out for idle
and 1 and 1/2 turn out for high speed. Those are INITIAL settings in range
that will allow engine to start and run. As you run engine warmed up fine
tune by slight adjustments of high speed needle...idle adjustment next to
obtain smooth idle.
Clogged carburetor passages may require removal of carburetor for cleaning
with carburetor spray. Air leakage where carburetor is attached to crankcase
will lean out mixture.

Reviving a long idle outboard motor tends to follow a routine.
A) clean and set points
2) clean carburetor and fuel system
3) inspect impeller...easier said than done as access may take either a
tool or require some wrench time to get at and may involve some stubborn
fasteners...the harder it is to get at impeller the more likely it is
to be original and ripe for replacement. Impellers are made of rubber
and deteriorate whether in use or in storage...even on dealer's shelf.
4) unfortunate and difficult to remedy things can and do happen during
storage...
Investigate before you Invest! Prices for once common and routine service
parts can unmake economics of a "FREE" outboard. I suspect quite a few
really well restored but common outboard motors could be purchased for the
cost of parts required to restore them and maybe a 6 pack.
Louis

Louis,

It does pump water. When on the river it had a constant stream of water coming out of the 4 holes. pretty sure it has a internal fuel pump as all we did was hook it up to a plastic gas tank with a boat line.

Fuel pumps are nice when new. May be problems when older. Carburetor has
a cap with a filter in it (on the fuel pump motors)...the cap is easily
broken if not lined up right and expensive to replace.

Saturday at a meet a 1940's Mercury KE4 fresh from the barn was revived
by cleaning/setting points, carburetor and adding fresh fuel...started on
second pull. It pumped water remarkably well but for how much longer?
Even if impeller had been renewed the day it went into storage it could
be ready to fall apart.We did not have the left hand cover tool on hand
so we let it pass with comment that it should be checked before any
serious running.
Unless you are really paying close attention the first
indication of an impeller gone bad may be a seized up motor.
My first outboard motor was a really nice looking Mercury KE3...cleaned
and set points and it was ready to go...NOT! Water pump impeller had
shed all its vanes...new impeller and it pumped great. Recently I noticed
a crack in water jacket casting (a separate part) so I removed it
and replaced it with one I had on hand. Inside the old water jacket
was a piece of the old impeller...small enough to come up water tube
but too large to exit AND capable of obstructing exit passage.
Bits of impeller wandering into the cooling water circuit and lodging where they may can lead to an overheating problem difficult to diagnose
or cure. On later models it may be possible to clear system with compressed air but there is no way to tell if all the bits and pieces are cleared
out or not.

Good Luck
Louis .

We messed around with the idle some. Also the high and low and it seems to start easier. Run smoother. Still have trouble with play in the handle. Hard to get it where you want to start with all the play in the handle. Does not seem to be in the handle its self but with the gears inside the housing.

We ran it in a bucket for about 30 mins working on the idle. Then we checked the motor temp it was 260F. Seemed a little hot. It was pumping water but not a lot of water. So we took the LU apart and checked the water pump. One fin was broken but still attached and two of the fins were bent backwards. I ordered a new water pump but I am unsure if this will fix the heat issue.

Does this motor take a 50 to 1 fuel mixture? That is what we are using right now.

50 to 1 is a bit on lean side. 3/8 pint of oil per gallon of gasoline was
called for originally (6 ounces oil in 128 ounces of gasoline...about 21 to 1) Even with today's improved 2 cycle oil it would be better
to use original proportions. Add same quantity of oil to measured quality
of gasoline and mix well before pouring into motor tank. If you make up each
batch consistently you will not have to fiddle with carburetor needles once
you have right settings.
There are several motor tune up in a can for 2 cycle outboard motors that
are reported to clean out carbon and free up rings. OMC and Mercury both
offer so they probably are worth while.
Louis
Glad you checked impeller. Water boils at 212 so 260 in water jacket area
is not good...exhaust will be hot which is why cooling water is dumped
into exhaust manifold to aid in cooling hot gas.
With a new impeller, oilier fuel mix will likely bring temperature to normal.

I am not clear about handle problem. Early versions in the series had a
rubber bushing to reduce vibration transmission (non shift motors)
Is yours a gear shift motor with a twist handle? In that case there
has to be some mechanism involved which can be loose, worn, broken or out
of adjustment. Mark6/Mark6A manual shows lots of bits and pieces and
a spring clutch on drive shaft...great when working not so great to
have to tear into to repair. I have little experience with this series
except to know they are different from early K Models and they went thru
a lot of changes.
Good Luck

Hello,

Put in my new water pump. Mixed the full better and it took a bit of adjustment but got it running. But can't keep it cool. So we took the LU back off and checked the water pump. Everything still seems good. Pulled the tube that hook from the motor to the water pump out and found two fins of a old water pump in the tube. Right at the end. Cleaned out that tube. Everything back together and still not enough cooling. Wondering if more fins are up in the motor or blocking the hole going into the motor. Can't really see all that well all the way up into there. Any advise?

Also seemed to have messed up the cable for neutral so I gotta find a new one. No luck so far. Any ideas where to get one? Its a cable with a lead looking cylinder on the end.

Thanks,

Seems the housing that goes over the water pump is messed up. Its bent and letting most of the water go out the sides of the pump. The seals are also shot in it. So I am shaving the bottom off with the lathe and getting some new seals. It has a hole in the side of the water pump. Looks drilled to me. Not sure if its suppose to be there or not. Seems like a odd place for a seal unless its some type of pressure relief hole.

I took the LU off the motor and hooked a electric pump up to the motor and fired it up. Pumping 60 degree water thru it and running the motor. It never got over 100 degrees on the casing of the motor. Just gotta get the pump to pump enough water.