What year motor this is, mod.# WM 7, Ser.# 830148, also need manual, Don't even know the gas oil mixture.
I don't know about where to get an owner/operator or service manual.
Generic service manuals sometimes available for old outboards at public
All your other questions can be answered by going to Tech Info portion
of this site.
Oil/gasoline mixture ratio can be approximated using TCW3
in place of non detergent motor oil on a 1 to 1 basis...about 6 ounces
of oil per gallon of gasoline Use a kitchen measuring cup and water
to determine 6 ounce level in a soft drink or water bottle then draw a
circle around bottle at water line with a permanent marker. Get a known number of gallons of gasoline at pump and add as many measures of oil as required. Gasoline deteriorates quickly Use it up within a month. Stale fuel should be recycled or burned in a less demanding engine...old farm tractors were designed
to run on distillate...low grade fuel about as combustible as wet hay so
stale fuel okay for them.
Old outboards seldom worn out. If you are patient and have some tools they
can usually be made to run again. In all cases it is best to evaluate condition and costs before diving in too deep.
Thanks Louis,I still need to find outages things about this engine, also the fitting where the gas line is broken, want to convert over to newer style pump up gas tank. Thanks again, and if you hear anything about a manual please e-mail me.
Kiekhaefer (Mercury) made WM7 using Mercury Mark 20 powerhead and Mercury
KG7 lower unit. Although not exactly a Wizard specific Mercury Service Manual covering the Mercury Outboards 1965 and Prior should help some...available
in reprint as well as greasy grimy well used...new quite expensive for what
you get...sometimes found at outboard meets more reasonable. WM7A uses the
Mercury Mark 25 powerhead and Mercury KG7 lower unit.
Parts Manual( as distinct from Service Manual,which is mostly a general outline for factory trained mechanics using the Mercury Service Tools on fairly new motors) are more helpful at visualizing the parts within, their sequence and of course the part number and illustrations.
Be advised that a SIX decade old outboard will present problems due to fasteners that are more likely to break off than unfasten. A parts chase seldom ends at your local Western Auto Associate Store or Mercury dealer.
You can purchase online parts manual specific to the Mercury Models and I thing you can access Mark 20, KG7 and Mark 25 at NY chapter online and print a download (maybe takes some skilled key strokes to do that)
As far as finding Wizard WM7 specific information...that may take some doing
1)Gravity flow from tank to a carburetor designed for gravity flow
2)Two line pressure feed from remote tank to carburetor designed for pressure
3)Single line fuel pump from remote tank to carburetor designed for pressure
Finding correct two line connectors can be expensive
Installing a fuel pump on powerhead to use a single line system is a common
upgrade and from all reports less expensive, safer and more reliable. Not
something I have first had experience with so best to hear from those who
really know rather than third hand impression.
Working on old outboards involves thinking ahead...the fasteners of water
jacket and exhaust cover in particular will be difficult to remove without
breaking off...do NOT remove unless there is reason to. Even the pros will
break off a bolt or pull a stud out of aluminum thread. What will you do
with a problem...unless you have welding or machinist skills you will
pay for their services. You may find a prior mechanic has been there and
done that...leaving you with some hard choices...fix what you have or look
for a good used replacement.
Seals and bearings do not last forever...seals that do not seal allow
vacuum and pressure leaks...lower crankshaft seal keeps water out of
crankcase...water enters crankcase during vacuum cycle if lower seal
is bad...bearings, crankshaft, rings and cylinder walls soon destroyed
Not said to scare...one who knows advised to always replace lower crankshaft
seal as they are cheap and always need replacement. Tearing down powerhead
far enough to get at seal takes some doing but seal and gaskets are not
that expensive. You may find the damage has already been done. Decision
at that point can be a tough call. First outboard can be a joy to work on
or a money pit. Much depends upon prior use and care...an unloved motor
showing obvious abuse and neglect at a give away price may turn out to
be a better deal than a pristine example at a sky high price...they may
both need complete rebuilding to run...if too expensive to do it is a lot
easier to walk away from a $50 pig in a poke than one you paid $300 for
and sale of parts may be a break even on a $50 bargain.
If you have basic tools,patience and a place to work the motor will teach
you how to work on it. Experience making mistakes is an investment in
an education as an outboard restorer...sometimes the patience does not
survive surgery but the experience usually makes for a better doctor.
Judson: I have not been on this site for years but just now stumbled across it again & here are answers to your questions. Your Wizard Super 10 Model WM7 was the first run built in 1955. This run started with # 826920 & ended with # 830919 & there were 3999 total motors built in that 1st run, built by
Mercury of course, The WM7 & WM7A BOTH carried the Merc Mk 25 powerhead with the larger crankshaft, 4 cage reed block & the SINGLE fuel line, NOT the double line pressure tank as the earlier models. The WM7 indeed had the MK25 fuel pump & should be kept that way & not reverted to the old double line pressure system. They ran the phelon mag & I used the new 50-1 outboard oil & just mixed it 1/2 pt to a gallon which is a excellent mix as I ran mine as a racing motor for many years.The WM7 & WM7A were the last of the Merc built Wizard 10's & the best by far as the MK25 powerhead was much improved & stronger over the older MK20 powerheads. I restored many of them & also raced them & they are a excellent motor & relativly a trouble free running engine. Hope that helps, since 2008 I have switched to & am collecting & running the Martin 200 engines.