Any tips on rebuilding a 1949-50 Wf-4 wizard been sitting in storage for years. Last time it ran was about 1965 or 64.
Prepare yourself, it may not much more than polish the points and mix up
gas and oil (pint of outboard oil to gallon of gas)...almost all outboards
are two cycle motors requiring oil mixed with gas. Running straight gas
has been the ruin of more than one old outboard.
If motor was prepared for long term storage and stored in a warm dry location
chances are good you may have dodged major problems. Many many old outboards
were taken off boat,leaned up in the corner and more or less forgotten...
some were just left out in the weather without even a scrap of canvas to keep
off rain and snow. Although an outboard motor is intended for use around water they will have problems if even small amounts remain in or enter crankcase, cylinders or even gear case during use or storage.
More harm has befallen old outboards in storage than in use. Early Wizards
made by Kiekhaefer Mercury are pretty much the same as Mercurys. Postwar
Wizards were similar BUT not same...many parts will not interchange.
Whether your WF4 requires only TLC or a full tear down and rebuild needing
some replacement parts is something that has been determined by prior care and storage...hope for the best but save room on your work bench for an
Pistons can be stuck to cylinder walls, usually and expecially in lightly
stuck motors it is the rings that rust to cylinder walls. Rusted rings may
break lose with just penetrating oil and light force,but still need to be replaced and cylinder honed...not that everyone does it.
You can be sure the rubber water pump impeller needs replacement, points
are usually glazed...polish to a mirror like finish and set gap...you remove flywheel to access magneto points coils and condensers...
removing flywheel is a matter of technique not force.
A mechancal background can be helpful if you keep in mind that two cycle
technology is much different than four cycle. It helps to have tools and
a place to work. Patience and an even temper required. Parts come mostly
from parts motors. Advice is worth what you pay for it.
Start simple and do only the minimum amount of work necessary. Patience and persistence and do not force things.
Some chemical cleaners damage paint. I like WD-40 ro remove grime coupled with a 1" paint brush cut down to shorten (an stiffen) the bristles.
Your motor is a quite robust model. I am always amazed how little work they sometimes take to get running again.
Do you have the parts list yet? It contains exploded diagrams so you can see how it comes apart.
You likely can find used parts from people reading this board.
See if there is still grease in the lower unit. Some Wizards that are stuck actually have a corroded lower unit.
Use PB Plaster or some similar spray inside the spark plug holes and gently work the flywheel to see if a stuck motor frees up.
Sometimes the recoil grease gets stiff and does not retract. Spray in some WD-40 after you take it off the motor and it will likely loosen up.
Cleaning the inside of the carb and fuel line and fuel tank. I do change the fuel filter after the cleaning myself.
I am surprised but a large number of the impellers are still usuable even after a long period. It is located behind the propellor.
The flywheel can be pulled with a inexpensive too called a harmonic balancer pulled
Correction...one CUP of TCW 3 oil per one gallon of gasoline...actually Kiekhaefer Mercury specified 6 ounces oil per gallon of gasoline for normal use and 8 ounces of oil per gallon of gasoline for race motors. Figures out to
21 to 1 for 6 ounces per gallon and 16 to 1 for 8 ounces per gallon