If like mine they are caked with dirt and corrosion outside...but inside is
where it matters. Before opening up it is a good idea to spray exterior with
carburator cleaner. When clean work over a clean surface...paper towels etc.
to and carefully remove fasteners of bowl cover save gasket as pattern to make a replacement. Fuel inlet assembly is Rube Goldberg with gaskets and
bolt and several parts. If you find dirt and corrosion inside likely best to dip in the "gallon can of toxic cleaner" otherwise use the slightly less toxic spray carburetor cleaner to clear interior passages,throat, butterflys
and flush till clean or can empty.
Cleaning, renewing gaskets and returning needle adjustments to as found
will suffice until you get to starting motor.If it starts and runs you
fine tune idle and high speed needles adjustments when it warms up.
Probably as easy to find another carburetor as a kit. Upper crankshaft
has a seal but lower crankshaft does not...if bushing worn loose motor
will draw air which will lean out fuel air mixture provided by carburetor...may not idle or run below wide open if at all. Worn bushing
in lower cover can be replaced by a machinist...needs to be bored, a replacement bushing made, installed and reamed to align with upper bushing.
Protective gear...face shield and neoprene gloves...stuff is hard
on skin and work so you are up wind...have last weeks newspapers under
to catch residue. Carb cleaner disolves most throw away gloves...test first
by spraying a glove with cleaner before starting....same for any other product you use if you are wearing gloves to protect skin.
Read label before using products...be aware that while front of can may
say "Safe,Easy and Effective" the weasel words on back of can usually
tell a different story. (marketing and legal department never seem to agree)
Louis
