Thanks to this forum, I have the parts and knowledge to put the lower unit together on this baby. Regards the gaskets......is there any special adhesive I need to put this all back together...or will any common gasket adhesive do the job?
Another real stupid question (maybe not)...how do I find the exact red color that Western Auto may have used on their motors....I am thinking...correct me if I am crazy...that the tank would look great in the red...the rest in dull aluminum.
Appreciate any advice on these points.
Doug Williams, Miami, Florida
I grease the gasket between waterpump housing and gear case.
Same for gasket between carburetor and crankcase. In both cases
to ease servicing if needed
All other gaskets sealed with Permatex (or equal.) There are a lot of
joints in the Kiekhaefer buitl up powerheads and they all can leak
unless carefully sealed.
Paint...ALL prewar Kiekhaefer made outboards were painted Dull Aluminum
pumped out of same barrel(all sources agree on this point)...some variance from barrel to barrel and some variance from top of barrel to bottom...in a seller's market not much was needed to enhance sales.
Having said that (and mindful of the several barn paint applied with
scrub brush or broom encountered along the way)I can not account for
the several pea green colored original looking paint jobs. ECK may have
gotten a deal on an odd barrel of paint or even ran out and had to use
what local hardware store had on hand...somethings will remain unresolved.
As for your motor, use a paint that resists gas,oil and alcohol in any
color that pleases...be advised that the authenticity police take a dim
view of such. Spray can paint scuffs easily.
At a meet several years back there was a very well restored KG7 (?) in
a bright glossy yellow instead of dark green...looked great but stuck
out like the proverbial sore thumb next to traditional color Mercs next
to it or even the equally well restored Chris-Craft.
It is all about having fun...a few years back a well regarded member of
Great Lake Chapter was given the "Only known remaining Chris-Craft Cub"
(an air cooled Elgin VERY well recreated as a Chris-Craft) in recognition
of both his many contributions to chapter and his loyalty to the
Chris-Craft brand of outboards...Mr. Chris-Craft. The authenticity police
gave that a pass.
Always great advice, and I am having alot of fun. Going to my first meet tomorrow up in Fort Lauderdale and I know I will learn alot and meet alot of nice guys. Now I have 5 other motors I am anxious to do.
My Wizard is doing good...I have found a problem with a loose fitting brass pin that pins the "occilator" to the shaft. The pin and shaft hole are worn and the pin slips in and out too easily. I am thinking that I should replace that pin to get a snug fit. I tried the pin used to pin the prop to the shaft and the OD is perfect...so thinking I will go to the shop and get one cut to the proper length. Advice on that? I will post pictures as soon as I can get Photobucket to work.
Took the carb top off tonight and all seems clean, float works fine, and so will just put that back together and cut a new paper gasket from gasket stock and seal with Permatex.
Lowes has 3/16" x 36" brass rod that will serve to make several sheer pins
and drive pins. I use a small vise to hold rod and a copper tubing cutter
to cut rod...takes a little practice to get length spot on, chuck pin in
drill chuck, file to smooth ends (tubing cutter raises metal.)
Save the rod for other uses.
Nice Pictures...worth several thousands of my words.
Check the drive pin diameter...it could be smaller diameter...my recall
is not 100% I do recall it is short and fits into slot in eccentric.
I assume the motor you are talking about is the WA3? I would not assume that there is a problem with the impeller pin. I have a 1940 Sea King which is basically a Merc K1 (WA2) and I thought the same thing. My pin is rounded on the end like yours and fits loosely in the shaft. Louis and I have had several conversations about this. Some of the K1s have a retainer spring that fits down over the impeller hub to retain the pin. Mine had a pin that slipped inside after pulling the hub up. When the impeller was pushed back in place, the round end of the pin slid in a groove on the inside of the impeller hub. Clear as mud, huh? I can send you some pictures of my impeller assembly if you like.
You guys are great!!!! I went to my first meet today (South Florida Chapter), and like here, I learned more in 1 day than I would ever learn in 10 years on my own.
I figured that the gas tank was not right....and now I am sure that it was a rigged (and it worked) tank. So now I am on the hunt for the right gas tank for the WA3 (K2 motor) that was sold to Western Auto. I also have to figure out how it was painted. I got the dull aluminum part from Louis and the guys at the meet, but the tank had to have something special on it...or the etching for the Wizard brand may have had some color. Meanwhile.....now I know how to get this guy running, and I am sure that I will find the right tank.
More pictures coming...thanks so much for everyone's help.
I love old motors!!!
Doug Williams, Miami, Florida
Based on the pictures you were kind enough to send me last night, I am missing the spring. Otherwise my setup is the same. It makes sense to me because without that spring there would be alot of movement, which may have caused the wear I see on the shaft and pin in the first place.
I am going to lay it out again and compare to your picture in a little while.
Thanks...you have probably saved me alot of trouble.