I am restoring a WA-3 (K2) and I am not sure the gas tank is the correct tank....and not sure of the color the original Western Auto tank was painted. I have been looking for pictures everywhere but have yet to find any pictures or advertisements with that early motor. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you...Doug Williams
Notice the magneto lever on your WA3 is bent so handle is above flywheel?
The K2 on East Coast Marine has the same lever which requires the tank
shown (called the shoebox ) which is lower in front to allow for the
lever to be free to move. Same basic motor used a variety of tanks until
Kiekhaefer adopted cast aluminum tanks which continued postwar in KD/WD
singles and twins.
It is not uncommon to find prewar Kiekhaefers with missing or badly rusted
out steel tanks. Finding a correct replacement is going to be difficult
as many including myself could also use a correct replacement.
Unless someone starts reproducing tanks in fiberglass (as is being done
with cowls for certain later models) or aluminum (a number of small
parts are available as semi finished castings) you either have to stay
with the tank someone adapted or acquire a postwar cast aluminum tank
from either a KD or WW single plus reconfigure the magneto lever.
Those are the options I can think of.
It all comes from Kiekhaefer producing a range of brands and models in
fairly limited runs each different in some way. If you are missing something
like a propeller (same or interchangeable thru end of WG4 run) easy to find.
Something unique to a first year motor that had a common problem (RUST)
falls into the wish and hope catagory...one thing for sure if I am in
line ahead of you and such a tank were on table expect to see my hands
reaching for it while I block your line of sight and reach with my body.
If our positions in line were reversed I expect you would do the same.
Color: prewar Kiekhaefer paint came from same barrel for all brands and
models...Dull Aluminum...with some slight variation from barrel to barrel.
I have been using an etching primer and PlastiCote T41 Dull Aluminum...
lacquer resistant to today's fuel. Fairly easy to work with but I have
noticed a soft paint easily marred...perhaps a clear overspray would
Did you check the bushings in water pump housing and gear case?
Driveshaft sealing is fairly primative and lower driveshaft often
worn/pitted. One way to check wear is to reverse driveshaft...it should
NOT fit into bushing (lower end of drive shaft is ground a few thousanths
undersize in area of seal and bushing).
Spline wear in socket of crankshaft and upper driveshaft not uncommon...
a little grease would have extended life of splines. Also lube propshaft
end to end with water proof lube to inhibit corrosion.
A lot of what you find will reflect knowledge preventative maintenance by
prior users both good and bad.
Got the lower unit squared away and am confident that it will perform. Thanks for Louis, found the prop I needed and otherwise figured it out. I have the parts ordered and I think it will be READY TO RUN.
Now am heading to the Tilllotson MS-113A and before taking it off am looking for a rebuild kit and maybe (ha!), some drawings that will give me a clue about how to rebuild this beauty. Have some pictures of progress that I will post in a little while.
Thanks to all for your help....Doug Williams
MS113 has a copper float. No problem if undamaged. Needle and seat seem
pretty bullet proof. Has a spring wire linkage. Have fun cutting gaskets. Exterior can be gently blasted to remove paint and grime. Hopefully all
it needs is cleaning and tlc.