I recently picked up a 1940 Sea King one lunger. I've just got into the old outboard craze and have just started tearing this one down. It is seized up so may not end up with anything but parts but we'll see how it goes. In the meantime I've started working on the lower unit and have some questions.
The prop shaft was dry so would assume there's seal around the shaft which if that is the case, the seal is good?
Behind the propeller, shear pin, and spring there is a brass/bronze plate that's held in by a C-clip so I would assume that this plate should come out when the clip is removed. This plate also has a hole in it and it looks like there's some kind of pin end or something in the hole coming from below. What am I seeing here? What is behind this plate?
The shaft doesn't turn freely, in fact it's downright hard to turn. I would guess that the bushing is really gummed up. If I want to remove the shaft, should it slide out pretty easy? Is there anything in there that I have to watch out for taking the shaft out?
The bronze bushing that the forward end of the prop shaft rides in doesn't appear to have excessive play. Of course, since I don't know what non-excessive play is I'm just going with what feels good.
The bevel gears look to be in good shape so that's a relief. Also on the plus side there doesn't appear to have been water in there, no rust, just a lot of grease. Is there a telltale sign that grease and water have been working together like you get with a oil/water mix?
Thanks to anyone for their help.
The lower unit pictures should answer a few questions.
Pre war Kiekhaefer design was evolving so your 1940
Sea King is not quite same as pictures.
Thru the years more or less skilled persons may have
worked on your motor making unique parts substitues
or swapping in later model parts...some parts are
same part number from K1 to KE3 too.
1940 Kiekhaefer had an eccentric which wobbled the
"hockey puck" oscillator type water pump and had
an aluminum cover. A later vane type impeller and
housing could be substituted so you may find either type. Early style propeller is driven by a shear pin located near end of prop shaft. Brass cover
is a later part than aluminum. Rubber clutch assembly
can be installed but requires later style propeller.
Prop is secured by an egg shaped aluminum prop nut although later nut may be there instead.
If you are going to remove prop shaft from water pump
housing...polish the exposed portion of propshaft to
remove burrs and roughness...so bearing in housing
is not scratched.
It is possible to swap in later water pump
assembly and switch to rubber clutch without altering propshaft although a later style propeller and prop
nut are needed...factory offered a kit to do this. Can be done by simply taking parts off a later model
motor...sometimes you find a single with gear set
from a twin...sometimes twins with single gear set.
Your 1940 Sea King motor may be factory original in all respects or may have more or less evolved into
a later model...pictures would resolve questions
suggestions have to be tentative if uncertainty
exists as to parts...brass cover indicates at least
some swapping...aluminum cover wears badly so a
brass cover might have replaced...perhaps more
parts as well. The fact that Kiekhaefer made later parts so that they could be swapped to earlier model motors may make finding an all original motor less likely. On the other hand it made finding parts to fix an older motor simpler.
Love the little Kiekhaefers whatever the brand.
Post any questions here. There are several besides
myself who can offer helpful suggestions.
Stuck power head...my favorite subject...I have fixed
a few and ruined a few...a few thoughts on what I have
found works and also a few on what does not...
First remove powerhead from lower unit...three screws
secure handle assembly...use long screwdriver to
get front mounting screws of powerhead...up thru holes in copilot friction plate...Kiekhaefer used
a mix of lengths and threads so note where all fasteners come from and return them there when
reassembling...hopefully all prior mechanics did likewise...(you will find use for 1/4x20 and 1/4x28
taps and dies...be careful to use on correct threads)
Remove what passes for a carburetor...look at bottom
of connecting rod...if original you should see two
screws in an aluminum rod...if you can get the screws out and the cap off...goody! If piston is up or down
this is possible...inbetween not easy maybe not at all
It is possible later steel rods have been installed...
,if so,disregard above as they fasten differently.
If you can get rod cap off, remove cylinder/water jacket assembly hold down screws...cylinder piston
rod assembly can be separated from crankcase by
combination of heat, solvent and use of a thin
knife driven into gap between crankcase and cylinder
tapping on back of blade with small hammer,work your
war around cylinder...apply heat to expand aluminum
crankcase around cylinder...see John's old Mercury
bad news series for pictures and comments.
A couple of assumptions about stuck prewar models...
1) Stuck relates to piston/rings stuck in cylinder
Crankshaft in my experience is not a part of the
problem as steel does not stick to bronze bearing.
2) separating cylinder/piston rod assembly from
crankcase gives access to problem
3) parts in general are less robust than later
versions of same parts so be gentle or be sorry.
4) greasegun is a kill or cure approach...you can
apply enough pressure to move a stuck piston
or to burst a cylinder...it all depends upon
which gives first...
5) Many later pattern parts can be substituted but
a later crankshaft is required to use the steel
needle bearing rods.
6) Few prewar parts are available, best, not to
ruin good parts if at all avoidable.
7) Too much oil, solvent or patience will not hurt.
8) Torch is a handy tool so long as you use it
wisely...big wrench and bigger hammer will
often cause new problems without solving old ones.
If you encounter a problem you can not see a solution
to STOP. Time to give matters some thought and ask
questions of those who have been there and done that.
There is a picture series on page 6 of this site
giving overview of greasegun approach. Also some
follow up comments.
Louis, can you tell me the differences in the lower units for singles, and twins? Are there different length prop shafts? I tried a WG4 wp/prop assy on my KB3 but the gears won't mesh. I tried same unit on my KB1 and it meshed? What am I missing? Thanks, Brian.
Count the teeth of both gear and pinion...a single lower unit has a 12 tooth
pinion (on drive shaft) and 22 tooth gear (on prop shaft)
Twins have 14 tooth pinion (on driveshaft) and 19 tooth gear (on prop shaft)
ALSO twins should have shim(s) ahead of gear on prop shaft and a brass spacer
above pinon on drive shaft with a steel shim between brass spacer and brass
bearing...often missing...ALWAYS damaged as result.
12/22 and 14/19 are GEAR SETS...NO mix and match.
There are several different lengths for driveshafts and driveshaft housings
but that is not a single vs twin thing...more of a Mercury vs Wizard thing.
At a meet several years ago I picked up a like new drive shaft...definitely
Kiekhaefer but to long for KD3 I was working on...worked on a WD4 I later