I have a wizard 9hp outboard model number WBA6509A56. I believe it is 1966 model, though have no way of confirming. It had set for 15+ years after my grandfather passed, and I recently acquired it from my father because it was just sitting collecting dust. I started it in a barrel, and it was knocking so I immediately shut it down. I have attempted to do research on the web, but could not find anything. Is there a place to get parts or a rebuild kit for this model? Any assistance would be helpful. Even if you could tell me if I have the correct year for the model so that I can better my research. Thanks...

Wes

6509 is 1965 9hp made by West Bend which at the time
was being acquired by Chrysler...so it would be similar if not the same as 9hp West Bend or Chrysler
of that vintage. West Bend had previously made Elgin
brand outboards for Sears. Chrysler later sold out
to Force and then to Mercury Marine.
The history of the outboard motor industry is one of fierce competition with few survivors from the many who entered the field.
An outboard that has been stored a long time can have
two varieties of issues...1) it had something wrong
before it went into storage 2) issues caused by long
period of storage....running tank and carburetor dry
while foggging and storeing in a dry area away from
heat or cold would alleviate most but NOT all storage
issues.
Some old outboards are beyond economic repair and should only be considered a possible source of parts.
Checking compression is a first step and may be a
Pass or Fail for powerhead. If compression checks
out okay then check ignition spark with a spark
checker which indicates if spark is strong enough
to fire under pressure...taking wire off spark plug
and seeing if spark jumps is not as reliable a test.
If coils are weak or shot the cost to replace can be
a deal breaker.
IF the motor is in good mechanical condition with
a good coils restoring to operation likely will not
be difficult or expensive. Be aware that cosmetic
items (handle grips, gas caps and missing cowls)
can really add up to a significant sum.
Water pump impellers should be on your replace before using motor list...99% of them are rotten and I have
yet to run across the other 1%.
Investigate BEFORE you Invest and you will usually do all right both on Wall Street and in restoring old outboard motors.
Louis

Thank you for the quick reply.

The engine starts, I have actually had it on the water and running. Here is the catch. It will run, and then after a period of time (random no real fixed time) the engine locks up. I can then twist it to free it. I believe there is a bearing loose that is catching causing the engine to lock up. I was wanting to rebuild, and had issues finding parts. I contacted a local outboard repair shop and they said to junk the engine that I could not find any parts for it. If Chrysler has compatible parts that is great. I will look into that. Thanks again for the assistance, and if you have any other advice I am all ears. Thanks again.

Here is the parts catalog for your model. It might help you track things down.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/65-chrysler-parts-catalog-9hp-models-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1c14a2aa7bQQitemZ120605289083QQptZMotorsQ5fManualsQ5fLiterature

Place a free classified ad on AOMCI.org for parts you are looking for (follow the Webvertize link). Keep an eye on eBay, too. There are still a lot of Chrysler parts out there.

JP

Seizing up after a short period of running....
you ARE mixing outboard oil with gas 16 gas to 1 oil ratio?
you ARE checking to see if powerhead is overheating?
(if you are depending upon an old impeller you will
often be disappointed)
Sounds like the ignition is working so take coils off your shopping list.
How are your mechanical skills, tools, work bench
and sleuthing skills?
From a mechanic's perspective your outboard is too
old to be worth fixing and they would be dishonest to
say otherwise. They are at their best working on
motors they can order parts for and for which
they are trained to service.
You are on your own as far who will be your mechanic.
A friend who is very good at working on his own old outboards will not work on anyone else's because
it takes a lot of time to do it right as well as to track down the needed parts...the bill he would have
to present would make a new outboard look cheap.

It does not seem to me a good idea to run an old
outboard motor without checking and usually replacing the impeller. Most outboard motors made since ww2
incorporate a rubber flexible vane type water pump impeller...simple, trouble free and long lasting...but they do deteriorate over time even if not in use. Many old outboards coming out of long term storage still havethe impeller they came from the factory with many long years ago.
Water cooled motors require a flow
of cooling water to maintain correct temperature...
without a functioning water pump impeller the
engine overheats and may seize up.
Two cycle outboards (except some very recent designs)
use a mix of gas and outboard oil...gasoline alone
provides no lubrication to engine parts. Your outboard
requires 8 ounces of outboard oil to each gallon of
gasoline. Modern outboard oil standard is TCW-3
rated...running wide open might require a little
richer mix of oil...slow running might require a
little leaner mix to reduce spark plug fouling.

Proceed with caution. An old outboard with a problem
requires careful evaluation. Some problems can best
be resolved by a one way trip to scrap metal recycler.
Most can be resolved with a "parts motor" and some
mechanical skills...not on order of difficulty of
a heart transplant but the same general principle.
I once sold a parts motor...when buyer received it
and compared it to motor he was rebuilding he decided
it would be simpler to redo the parts motor as it was
in far better shape.
The first outboard motor you work on will set your
attitude toward outboards in general...a money pit project that never ends or a few evenings tinkering
that result in a nice runner...there are more than
a few of both kinds out there.
Good Luck
Louis

I owe you!!!! I tried mixing at 16:1, it got rid of everything. No more knocking, no more locking up!!!! I assumed that the mix was 50:1 like modern engines. Thank you!!! A little education goes a long way.