Is it common for the fuel tanks to leak on the Wizard WG4's? Looks like my newly acquired motors tank has had a sealer applied to the seam part of it where the two pieces join together. Thanks for any help.
Yes,quite common. The cast aluminum tanks were made
in two pieces and joined using some process and
material at the factory. Many have tried to take
the cast tanks apart and rejoin them to cure leakage
with limited success. I have seen edge of seam of earlier style tanks drilled, tapped and screws installed to pull seam tighter. Even lapping joints
on emery paper and plate glass seems not to be
Auto parts stores sell leak stop for gas tanks that
may work, there are tank clean,prep and slosh/seal
systems that seem to work well, but, are costly.
I have a WF4 that I am going to part out.
I believe WG4 tank is same as WF4
$5 plus postage from 48059
These tanks are heavy so postage should be factored
into your decision. I will check tank for leakage
if it leaks...a friend has a small foundry that
Phelon 189 Magneto...spark on both cylinders
Tillotson AJ8A Carburetor
1/2" bore prop... welds need to be smoothed
these props are prone to trailing edge cracks near hub
so weld repairs very common.Average overall
Lower unit shows evidence of striking something
bent prop shaft sheared pin and gears worn
some usable parts and some I would not use or offer
I have mostly gas money to go get and storage space
tied up in this motor...all offers considered so
long as you pay the postage
Parting out WF4 update...
tank turned out to be iffy so off to foundry
magneto and carburetor spoken for
balance still available, interior of crankcase looks
clean...in my experience a very good sign
If no interest in complete powerhead, parts will
find their way into a KD4 project.
I am looking for a lower unit for a postwar K or W Model single as I have an extra rebuilt powerhead
I purchased a wg4 that someone had put permatex form a gasket in the seams, what a mess,gas doesn't agree with it very well. I went to an auto parts store and purchased a thin sheet of cork and made gaskets to put in the seams. It was quite easy to trace the outlines of the tank onto the gasket sheets with the tank apart. I cleaned up the surfaces where the gaskets fit together. so far it looks like its a good fix.
Thanks. I'm gonna try that.
just fixed one on a wg4 use seal all 3 tubes around upper and lower rim clean as good as you can fist then use red coat tank sealer on inside on tank let dry for a week bullet proof fix good luck
I know super glue is impervious to gasoline and is useful for coating sinking cork carburetor floats.
I wonder if it would be a good quick fix for the leaky two part cast aluminum gas tanks? Perhaps one would squirt a tube in and roll the tank so the seams get coated before it dries.
(Just me thinking out loud.)
I acquired a couple cast aluminum tank/rewind assemblies at a meet Saturday. Tonignt I cleaned
them up. Seam leaked badly on one so I removed all
the threaded rods and the two hex socket screws
and split the tank open. It appears that some sort
of gasket and sealer such as Permatex were used.
originally. I think that 1940 was way too early
for epoxy or other modern seal agent.
It appears that fasteners on the threaded rods
"pull" the tank halves together and clamp the
gasket/sealer between. It would appear that removing
the fasteners releases the claming force and may
lead to leakage. Anyway I needed the rewinds so
things will work out even if I can not fix this
tank. Will try repairing and report results either
According to some literature I read somewhere, the two halves of the cast tanks were assembled with the gasket and baked at the factory to seal them .