I just received this wg4 model cleaned the carb. put in two plugs pulled the start rope and Two things happened the recoil spring broke and the 59year old motor started, WOW i was impressed, while on the water i backed out the screw that is under the cover it has an access hole for a screw driver. Well i backed the screw out too far and it fell in the river and is lost. Where can I get parts this seems to be a motor worth having.
The spring is easy. If you want new, it is available at East Coast Marine:
Now, the carburetor needle valve may be a little bit more difficult. Figure out which model of carburetor you have (it should be stamped somewhere on the carb).
I would first recommend Doug Penn (firstname.lastname@example.org) for used parts, as you won't be able to get a new needle valve. You can also try placing a wanted ad on the classifieds at AOMCI.org. Lots of good guys there to help you out.
If you are thrifty like me you might want to take a
look at the broken spring...if it is broken at the end
loop the spring can be heated red hot with a torch
bend a new loop and let it cool.
Or you can keep an eye open for any early Mercury or Wizard with a recoil starter up to and including
Mark 20 all have same part number.(KF5,Super 5 series
have a different spring)
Installing recoil spring can be a thrill and requires two stong sets of fingers and a vice grip.
The AJ series carburetors are all pretty much the
same so it is likely you can find a part OR if you
are thrifty aka cheap like me you will go to Lowes
and buy a 3 foot piece of 3/16" brass rod...and
a 3/16"x 32 die. Electric drill (poor man's lathe)
and file to reduce end to 1/8" for about 3/8" and
a 45 degree cone on end. First try may or may not
work...enough material to make several trials and
stubs can be reworked for sheer pins. Making a
needle valve is not one of the Black Arts...just
takes a little time....reason needle came out
was probably due to loose or missing packing
in packing fitting.
Faster to make than to find in my experience.
Brass and a new file made for each other.
The above assumes you need a high speed needle and
the packing nut and inside threaded nut did not
go astray. If that is not the case go looking for
a junk AJ carburetor.
Wow you guys really know your stuff and I love to learn, so I hope you can help me with a few other questions. The screw directly below the choke in the front of the carb. controls what? and what should the motor do if it is turned all the way in or taken all the way out while running, how should it be adjusted? Second the screw to the right side with the spring (that I did find a replacement by the way) what does it control and what should the motor do if ran all the way in or taken all the way out. The motor runs either way. I seem to remember,I think you are supposed to turn it all the way in then back it out 1 1/2 turns. I guess i wonder if there is a site for me to watch how to adjust and tune the motor the serial number is 7253728 can you tell me if it is a 6 horse or a 7 1/2.
Looking straight at carburetor inlet...
the needle you see low on face of carburetor is the high speed needle that controls fuel air ratio when running at speed...(which is the one I assumed that
went for a swim) The high speed needle is something
you can make,low speed needle would be tough.
The other needle (at 45 degree angle high on right side with the spring) controls the fuel air ratio at low speed (rpm)
Each of the needles is adjusted by turning out from "lightly" closed position slighly more or less
than one turn, then fine tuned to the motor's sweet
spot after it warms up. Once set correctly it is good to go indefinitely.
Removing low speed needle may not affect running at
speed , but, would be difficult to get to run at
If you remove the high speed needle assembly as a unit first turn needle in to light contact while
carefully noting exactly how much you turn,then
back needle out beyond initial point an additional
turn or two,then use a wrench to back out the assembly as a unit, you will see a small hole that
the cone on tip of the needle fits into. Do NOT
enlarge by use of drill or any other means. The tip
of needle should be a smooth cone without a "ring"
If rough or ringed,chuck in electric drill and use
file to true up a 45 degree angle tip and smooth
with fine abrasive paper...clean and reinstall.
When replacing the assembly back needle into assembly
so that needle tip will NOT stick out and be forced
into contact with any part of carburetor as you
tighten up assembly with wrench. To reset adjustment
turn needle in to a light contact then back out the
same amount that you measured. Needle tip will be in
same position relative to the seat as it was at start.
Ignition,Carburetion and Compression...all three have
to be up to par for best performance...and all three
require different diagnosis and repair skills.
It is probable with an old long idle outboard that
at least one area will need attention and perhaps
all. It is even possible that correcting one problem
area will reveal a previously hidden problem in another area. Such is life...
Per chart ALL WG4 6hp...Kiekhaefer made Wizards were
detuned versions of Mercurys...different carburetor, fewer reeds on reed block and a plastic restriction
inserted under carburetor reduced output of motor.
Mercury dealers considered Wizards unfair competition
so Kiekhaefer and Western Auto differentiated the
two lines somewhat. Although not enough to make
Mercury dealers happy...they had to find something
else to be unhappy about when Kiekhaefer stopped
Here is a link to the parts manual for the WG4. Download and enjoy.
The instruction manual for the WD4S is useful for using your motor as they are just about the same motor with different cowling. Here is the link to the post.
This site and all of your help and advise are truly remarkable if there were more people with passion and hearts willing to share this would be a much better world. Thank you and I am sure I will have more questions and reports of results of my work and your knowledge.