I'm working on a Wizard WF4 and have a few of questions.
1) The flywheel nut is missing and the threads are pretty rough. I'm not sure of the size. It measures close to a 7/16 - 20 thread but is seems very slightly larger than that. A new nut won't start and a 7/16-20 die is also slightly small.
Does anyone know the exact thread before I mess something up?
2) It has a Phelon magneto, but all the literature I've seen doesn't ever list the WF4 with that. Does this seem correct?
3)How about a schematic for the Tillotson AJ8b carb?
I emailed you an AJ carb diagram. Let me know if it is what you needed.
As far as your Wiz having a Phelon, the later Mercury Wizards had them, so it isn't completely surprising. Not that the Phelon parts are cheap, but better than having the Scintilla or the Eisemann.
Hope one of the guys has an answer for you on the crankshaft. Wouldn't surprise me if it was on odd tpi....common on the Keikhaefer stuff. I'm hoping Ron or Louis have an answer for you.
Unless there are exceptions Kiekhaefer made K Model
Mercury (early singles and twins)and the Sea King
single (1940/41) and the Wizard single and twins
based upon early K Models had 7/16 x 20 thread per
inch crankshaft threads. I believe these were "High
Class fit" meaning the crankshaft thread was slightly above standard and nut thread a little smaller so
nut was a snug fit on crankshaft. Common nut and bolt
are made sloppy for easy assembly...
Sometimes rust and dirt jam threads...clean threads
using wire brush and solvent...try with a clean oiled
nut...do not force...if nut will not start use a
strong light and magnifying glass to see is start of
thread is mushed down...if so, use a three corner
file to open up begining of thread...the 60 degree
angle is same as thread valley...file at an angle
to match lead of 20tpi...do not over do it...file
a little and try nut...might be a good idea to try
several nuts as the one that does not work may be
off in some way.
Use of a die on crankshaft thread is not something
I would do again...if you cross thread you will
loose metal to correct, even if it goes well you
may wind up with a loose fit..I am not sure that
is bad ,but, I suspect it is...if the nut comes
loose the flywheel may follow...
Badly mushed crankshaft threads can be corrected
with a tool called a thread file...several rows
of file hard teeth guiding on good thread below
the damaged area...works when a three corner file
can not get thread started right AND when a die
would certainly cross thread...
Avoiding mushed thread when pulling flywheel by
use of a protecting device on crankshaft end
and NOT hammering...
Thanks for the good suggestions.
JP - thanks for the AJ diagram. It's not exactly the same as my AJ8b bit it still helps. Mine appears to be a much earlier design.
Louis - thanks for the tips. the "High Class fit" is something I've not heard of but it makes sense.
I guess I'll try some filing next and try to start a 7/16-20 nut. I agree that a die is not a good option.