My current acquisition a remarkable complete and undamaged WD-4S. I have never worked on this vintage Wizard and need information on how to remove the brass cover so I can check and change the impellor. I have the lower unit disassembled but have no idea on how to remove that plate that covers the water pump. Any information would be a great help
The brass water pump cover is held in by the spring
clip that is best removed with a pair of bent tip
needle nose pliers large enough to grab both end
loops and squeeze...set aside
The brass cover is (usually) held in place by crud
Line up the pin thru the impeller drive with the
groove at side of water pump housing and push
If you remove the water pump housing from the gear
case ( two screws)
you can now push the prop shaft and gear out
back of waterpump housing.
Clean the groove around perimeter of brass cover
You can try prying up impeller drive using two
3/16" punches or screwdrivers or you can
SLAM the housing down on a wood surface to
see if brass cover will pop out...don't overdo
either method...gentle heat with a hairdryer
may assist things along...
When you get the cover off you will generally see
remains of rubber impeller...seldom one with
further service life remaining. Beyond the
impeller is a seal..remove and replace with
new as it is likely 60 years or so old and
no longer keeping water out of gear case.
If you need some visuals email me and I will
send pictures....easily worth at least 1,000
of my words...
What if something is broken or worn out?
Easy...they made a lot of Mercurys and Wizards
using this water pump/gear case...parts are out
there reasonable. Impellers are not cheap but
will last several seasons...motor will not
last very long without the cooling water supplied
by a working water pump...
the snap ring what missing thats what through me off. I was thinking it unscrewed from the houseing.
Sense we are on the Water pump subject my other project is a WG-7 I have the impeller cover unscrewd with a tool I made. My question is how does the Impellor houseing come out so that you can check the bearings and seals behind it?
Depends....I am NOT the expert on much ,but, I have
seen what troubles lie within...
There are several things to consider FIRST...
1) Check lube thru filler openings in gear case...
if it looks like new lube AND the gears and bearings
allow smooth and even transfer of power from drive
shaft to prop shaft there is no need to check
further. You are good to go. Failure of this testing
means disassembly is required.
IF lube is milky water is getting in...seal in water
pump cartridge and/or prop shaft surface roughness
in seal area may be at fault...pull cartridge using
made up tooling or service tool IF POSSIBLE...
CRUD and CORROSION may make this impossible.
NOW we get to the nitty gritty...nothing is holding
the entire assembly in except friction, crud and
corrosion....you can make up a tool using a piece
of steel plate with prop shaft size+ hole in center
a piece of pipe the right length, a stack of washers and a nut to fit prop shaft...assemble on prop shaft and draw entire assembly out OR at least loose...
the manual says clamp prop shaft in vise between
two pieces of soft wood and use soft mallet on
skeg...take your pick...remember manual was written to guide work on fresh motors NOT motors where
crud and corrosion have take hold for near
60 years. Things go back together with the parts
in the same order...be sure to keep that in mind
and take notes, pictures or drawings.